https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Aprice&feedformat=atomNottinghack Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T07:42:11ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.35.1https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Team:Woodworking&diff=22144Team:Woodworking2019-06-20T18:21:18Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Team<br />
|primary=(to follow)<br />
|members= Andrew Walters - Alex Price<br />
|lead=Bob Wood<br />
|trustee=Ali Groves<br />
|email=woodworking@nottinghack.org.uk<br />
|slack=https://nottinghack.slack.com/messages/C0A9327F0/<br />
|budget=(to follow)<br />
|started=September 2015<br />
}}<br />
<br />
This team is being created in order to ensure that all major Hackspace 'departments' have teams responsible for them. Interested in helping out? Ideally be interested in woodwork, carpentry, joinery, making nice things with wood and have an affinity for sawdust - tell us what you can offer: [mailto:woodworking@nottinghack.org.uk woodworking@nottinghack.org.uk]<br />
<br />
The aims and scope of the team, to be agreed and confirmed are:<br />
<br />
=== Aim ===<br />
To look after the Woodworking area, including keeping an eye on the tools and their usage, isolating any issues and keeping the area usable and user friendly.<br />
<br />
=== Scope ===<br />
The team is responsible for:<br />
* Keeping an eye on tools and consumables for the area<br />
* Keeping the area user friendly, safe and usable<br />
* Reporting any issues to other teams<br />
* Keeping the consumables relevant to the area topped up<br />
<br />
=== The team is not responsible for: ===<br />
* Purchasing of tools<br />
* Other areas of the space<br />
<br />
=== What timescales does the team have? ===<br />
There are no major timescales, however it is essential the consumables do not run out.<br />
<br />
=== What will happen if your responsibilities aren’t met? ===<br />
If the Woodworking Team are unable to meet the demand or timescales, the trustees may take on the responsibilities of the Woodworking team on a temporary basis.<br />
<br />
=== Person Specification ===<br />
In order to be a Woodworking Team member, you need to be good at communicating with the membership, personable and easy to approach.<br />
<br />
You should be visiting the space fortnightly to check on the woodworking area and whiteboard.<br />
[[Category:Teams]]<br />
[[Category:Woodwork]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Team:Woodworking&diff=22143Team:Woodworking2019-06-20T18:20:56Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Team<br />
|primary=(to follow)<br />
|members= Andrew Walters Alex Price<br />
|lead=Bob Wood<br />
|trustee=Ali Groves<br />
|email=woodworking@nottinghack.org.uk<br />
|slack=https://nottinghack.slack.com/messages/C0A9327F0/<br />
|budget=(to follow)<br />
|started=September 2015<br />
}}<br />
<br />
This team is being created in order to ensure that all major Hackspace 'departments' have teams responsible for them. Interested in helping out? Ideally be interested in woodwork, carpentry, joinery, making nice things with wood and have an affinity for sawdust - tell us what you can offer: [mailto:woodworking@nottinghack.org.uk woodworking@nottinghack.org.uk]<br />
<br />
The aims and scope of the team, to be agreed and confirmed are:<br />
<br />
=== Aim ===<br />
To look after the Woodworking area, including keeping an eye on the tools and their usage, isolating any issues and keeping the area usable and user friendly.<br />
<br />
=== Scope ===<br />
The team is responsible for:<br />
* Keeping an eye on tools and consumables for the area<br />
* Keeping the area user friendly, safe and usable<br />
* Reporting any issues to other teams<br />
* Keeping the consumables relevant to the area topped up<br />
<br />
=== The team is not responsible for: ===<br />
* Purchasing of tools<br />
* Other areas of the space<br />
<br />
=== What timescales does the team have? ===<br />
There are no major timescales, however it is essential the consumables do not run out.<br />
<br />
=== What will happen if your responsibilities aren’t met? ===<br />
If the Woodworking Team are unable to meet the demand or timescales, the trustees may take on the responsibilities of the Woodworking team on a temporary basis.<br />
<br />
=== Person Specification ===<br />
In order to be a Woodworking Team member, you need to be good at communicating with the membership, personable and easy to approach.<br />
<br />
You should be visiting the space fortnightly to check on the woodworking area and whiteboard.<br />
[[Category:Teams]]<br />
[[Category:Woodwork]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hitachi_Drill_Driver&diff=13846Hitachi Drill Driver2018-04-02T19:59:02Z<p>Aprice: broken tools</p>
<hr />
<div>These drills have been put into the broken tools box, due to the condition of the batteries and the poor performance of the drills, we still have 2 18V Bosch drills and a 10.8v Dewalt impact driver<br />
<br />
The Hackspace has two 'pairs' of Hitachi Cordless drills, also usable as power screwdrivers.<br />
<br />
Model DS14DVC is a non-hammer drill with a maximum speed of 1250rpm<br />
<br />
Model DV14DVC2 is a drill / hammer drill with a maximum speed of 1500rpm<br />
<br />
All use the same 14.4v 1200mAh / 1500mAh rechargeable battery packs, and there are two 'intelligent' charger stations for these.<br />
<br />
The hammer drill variants have a larger chuck capacity, and so can accommodate hole-saw arbors - this is particularly useful as these should be run at a particularly slow rotational speed and these cordless drills have speed control on the triggers.<br />
<br />
Both types have low / high speed gearbox selection - use low speed for high-torque is needed (e.g. screwdriving) and high speed for drilling.<br />
<br />
== Issues ==<br />
<br />
Damage can be done to the drills and battery packs if they are run too intensively. One drill and battery pack has been damaged in this way as the contacts between the two parts overheated, melting the contact springs through the plastic bodies into the outside rubber covering in such a way that contact couldn't be made. <br />
<br />
Please pay attentions to any 'hot plastic' or 'hot rubber' smells and give the drills a rest before continuing to prevent occurrence of this.<br />
<br />
Repair (06:21, 16 February 2014 (EST)) involves fitting a thin copper-foil splint in the plastic case to replace the burned material which acts as a backing for the contact spring.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]<br />
[[Category:Pages_for_Update]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Dusty_Area&diff=13845Dusty Area2018-04-02T14:19:58Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>The dusty area (some [[Workshop Dusty Area|project background]]) is where most sawdust-generating in the workshop area should take place. This is to prevent this dust getting to more sensitive equipment, such as laser cutters (obviously) and metalwork machinery (mill, lathe) where sawdust could attract damp and cause rusting.<br />
<br />
== Looks Like ==<br />
[[File:Dusty area main.jpg|640px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
Below are some photos of the main tools within the dusty area. (both of these have gone and have now been replaced)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Dusty area table saw.jpg|Table Saw<br />
File:Dust area wood lathe.jpg|Wood Lathe, <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
For now, the area simply ''contains'' the dust created. Sweeping up and vacuuming is still necessary, ''as is'' the wearing of breathing-protective masks (available in the Safety Equipment area), especially when working with more hazardous material such as MDF, plywood, and some toxic natural woods.<br />
<br />
<br />
We now have a large industrial dust / chip extractor hooked up to the Kity table saw, this chip collector has 3 inlets so could be used for other tools in the dusty area such as the planer, or a floor dust sweep so that dust and chips can be brushed and collected by the extractor. <br />
<br />
<br />
Plans for the dusty area:<br />
The woodworking team are planning to relocate the sheet material storage, along with the CNC benches. This will enable the current wall to be cut down and rotated, which will double the size of the dusty area. This expansion will improve the safety of the area, increasing the space around the table saw e.t.c. <br />
Sanders will be arranged in a line thus allowing better dust extraction from the fine particle dust extractor (green P&J)<br />
Blast gates will be fitted, and an automatic system for the extraction is being considered to ensure it is used.<br />
AIr filtration will be looked at possibly using one of the centrifugal blowers from downstairs, hopefully this will reduce the amount of airborne dust and help prevent the settling of dust on the tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* infrastructure tag<br />
* why it's cool<br />
* why it's there!<br />
* using it<br />
* etiquette<br />
** other people's projects<br />
* PPE gear<br />
** masks<br />
** goggles<br />
** ear defenders<br />
* etc!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Dusty_Area&diff=13844Dusty Area2018-04-02T14:06:42Z<p>Aprice: woodworking team intentions</p>
<hr />
<div>The dusty area (some [[Workshop Dusty Area|project background]]) is where most sawdust-generating in the workshop area should take place. This is to prevent this dust getting to more sensitive equipment, such as laser cutters (obviously) and metalwork machinery (mill, lathe) where sawdust could attract damp and cause rusting.<br />
<br />
== Looks Like ==<br />
[[File:Dusty area main.jpg|640px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
Below are some photos of the main tools within the dusty area.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Dusty area table saw.jpg|Table Saw<br />
File:Dust area wood lathe.jpg|Wood Lathe, <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
For now, the area simply ''contains'' the dust created. Sweeping up and vacuuming is still necessary, ''as is'' the wearing of breathing-protective masks (available in the Safety Equipment area), especially when working with more hazardous material such as MDF, plywood, and some toxic natural woods.<br />
<br />
<br />
We now have a large industrial dust / chip extractor hooked up to the Kity table saw, this chip collector has 3 inlets so could be used for other tools in the dusty area such as the planer, or a floor dust sweep so that dust and chips can be brushed and collected by the extractor. <br />
<br />
<br />
Plans for the dusty area:<br />
The woodworking team are planning to relocate the sheet material storage, along with the CNC benches. This will enable the current wall to be cut down and rotated, which will double the size of the dusty area. This expansion will improve the safety of the area, increasing the space around the table saw e.t.c. <br />
Sanders will be arranged in a line thus allowing better dust extraction from the fine particle dust extractor (green P&J)<br />
Blast gates will be fitted, and an automatic system for the extraction is being considered to ensure it is used.<br />
AIr filtration will be looked at possibly using one of the centrifugal blowers from downstairs, hopefully this will reduce the amount of airborne dust and help prevent the settling of dust on the tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* infrastructure tag<br />
* why it's cool<br />
* why it's there!<br />
* using it<br />
* etiquette<br />
** other people's projects<br />
* PPE gear<br />
** masks<br />
** goggles<br />
** ear defenders<br />
* etc!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Dusty_Area&diff=13843Dusty Area2018-04-02T13:53:15Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>The dusty area (some [[Workshop Dusty Area|project background]]) is where most sawdust-generating in the workshop area should take place. This is to prevent this dust getting to more sensitive equipment, such as laser cutters (obviously) and metalwork machinery (mill, lathe) where sawdust could attract damp and cause rusting.<br />
<br />
== Looks Like ==<br />
[[File:Dusty area main.jpg|640px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
Below are some photos of the main tools within the dusty area.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Dusty area table saw.jpg|Table Saw<br />
File:Dust area wood lathe.jpg|Wood Lathe, <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
For now, the area simply ''contains'' the dust created. Sweeping up and vacuuming is still necessary, ''as is'' the wearing of breathing-protective masks (available in the Safety Equipment area), especially when working with more hazardous material such as MDF, plywood, and some toxic natural woods.<br />
<br />
<br />
We now have a large industrial dust / chip extractor hooked up to the Kity table saw.<br />
<br />
<br />
Possibly hinged to the window wall so that the space can easily be switched from use for sanding and for cutting larger sheet materials using the table saw.<br />
<br />
* infrastructure tag<br />
* why it's cool<br />
* why it's there!<br />
* using it<br />
* etiquette<br />
** other people's projects<br />
* PPE gear<br />
** masks<br />
** goggles<br />
** ear defenders<br />
* etc!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Dusty_Area&diff=13842Dusty Area2018-04-02T13:51:39Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>The dusty area (some [[Workshop Dusty Area|project background]]) is where most sawdust-generating in the workshop area should take place. This is to prevent this dust getting to more sensitive equipment, such as laser cutters (obviously) and metalwork machinery (mill, lathe) where sawdust could attract damp and cause rusting.<br />
<br />
== Looks Like ==<br />
[[File:Dusty area main.jpg|640px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
Below are some photos of the main tools within the dusty area.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Dusty area table saw.jpg|Table Saw<br />
File:Dust area wood lathe.jpg|Wood Lathe, <br />
</gallery><br />
For now, the area simply ''contains'' the dust created. Sweeping up and vacuuming is still necessary, ''as is'' the wearing of breathing-protective masks (available in the Safety Equipment area), especially when working with more hazardous material such as MDF, plywood, and some toxic natural woods.<br />
<br />
A rack holds the main ''dusty tools'' for use in this area, others and accessories such as sanding sheets are contained within large stacking plastic tubs. [[File:Dusty area tool rack.jpg|640px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
We now have a large industrial dust / chip extractor hooked up to the Kity table saw.<br />
<br />
Install sawdust / chip extraction for installed tools and air-cleaning equipment.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Possibly hinged to the window wall so that the space can easily be switched from use for sanding and for cutting larger sheet materials using the table saw.<br />
<br />
* infrastructure tag<br />
* why it's cool<br />
* why it's there!<br />
* using it<br />
* etiquette<br />
** other people's projects<br />
* PPE gear<br />
** masks<br />
** goggles<br />
** ear defenders<br />
* etc!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Dusty_Area&diff=13841Dusty Area2018-04-02T13:50:42Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>The dusty area (some [[Workshop Dusty Area|project background]]) is where most sawdust-generating in the workshop area should take place. This is to prevent this dust getting to more sensitive equipment, such as laser cutters (obviously) and metalwork machinery (mill, lathe) where sawdust could attract damp and cause rusting.<br />
<br />
== Looks Like ==<br />
[[File:Dusty area main.jpg|640px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
Below are some photos of the main tools within the dusty area.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Dusty area table saw.jpg|Table Saw<br />
File:Dust area wood lathe.jpg|Wood Lathe, <br />
File:Dust area bandsaw.jpg|Floor-Standing Bandsaw with dust extraction unit fitted<br />
</gallery><br />
For now, the area simply ''contains'' the dust created. Sweeping up and vacuuming is still necessary, ''as is'' the wearing of breathing-protective masks (available in the Safety Equipment area), especially when working with more hazardous material such as MDF, plywood, and some toxic natural woods.<br />
<br />
A rack holds the main ''dusty tools'' for use in this area, others and accessories such as sanding sheets are contained within large stacking plastic tubs. [[File:Dusty area tool rack.jpg|640px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
We now have a large industrial dust / chip extractor hooked up to the Kity table saw.<br />
<br />
Install sawdust / chip extraction for installed tools and air-cleaning equipment.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Possibly hinged to the window wall so that the space can easily be switched from use for sanding and for cutting larger sheet materials using the table saw.<br />
<br />
* infrastructure tag<br />
* why it's cool<br />
* why it's there!<br />
* using it<br />
* etiquette<br />
** other people's projects<br />
* PPE gear<br />
** masks<br />
** goggles<br />
** ear defenders<br />
* etc!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Bench_Pillar_Drill&diff=13840Bench Pillar Drill2018-04-01T19:21:59Z<p>Aprice: moved downstairs</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Bench_pillar_drill_01.jpg|320px|frameless]]<br />
[[File:Bench_pillar_drill_02.jpg|320px|frameless]]<br />
[[File:Bench_pillar_drill_03.jpg|320px|frameless]]<br />
<br />
<br />
This is a 5-speed, 250W unit from Wickes<br />
<br />
Mounted on a piece of heavy kitchen worktop to provide a stable base.<br />
This tool is now stored in Hackspace 2.5, The blue Record pillar drill, purchased as part of the pledge drive, has been brought upstairs to replace it.<br />
<br />
Chuck capacity 12mm / 1/2"<br />
<br />
Normally set to the middle speed range - adjust it by pulling forwards the motor using the handle at the rear, locking it in this position using the securing lock on the right-hand side. Squeeze the spring as tight as possible using one hand before locking with the other.<br />
<br />
It is easiest to first slip the belt up or down the stack of reducing pulley sizes, then adjust the other (increasing size) end to arrive at the correct position. Then release the locking screw to allow the motor to return to its normal running position, making sure that the belt is seated squarely in the pulleys and is not twisted. Close the belt cover and check that the drill runs quietly and smoothly (as far as possible) before using it. Check for a twisted or damaged belt if this is not the case.<br />
<br />
Problems:<br />
<br />
Like many similar low-cost drills, the accuracy of the chuck is not brilliant.<br />
<br />
The depth stop is broken.<br />
<br />
Repaired, as far as possible. Note that the stop causes the drill axis to wander - it's best to use the depth stop as a visual cue rather than a mechanical limit.<br />
<br />
Replacement belt type K28 from Solent Tools [http://www.solenttools.co.uk/p0/drive-belts/316384.htm]<br />
<br />
After misuse of worn and inappropriate chuck keys, the original chuck became damaged (Jan2013), and it became more and more difficult to tighten securely, causing consequent damage to drill bits. A replacement chuck (physically larger, though with the same drill-size range) has now been fitted. (Apr2013 [[User:Dclarke|Dclarke]] ([[User talk:Dclarke|talk]]))<br />
<br />
Once again, the depth-scale has become detached, and the depth stop broken.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Benchtop_Mill&diff=13839Benchtop Mill2018-03-31T21:18:18Z<p>Aprice: location of mill, covers</p>
<hr />
<div>This is a Wabeco 11400 / F1210 precision milling machine which arrived as a result of the May 2016 pledged drive for tools.<br />
<br />
Wiki page is work-in-progress - will be completed when the mill is installed in the Hackspace workshop.<br />
The mill is currently located on a bench near the donations area and the fire doors. Currently wooden covers have been made to protect the bed, please ensure these are replaced after use.<br />
<br />
== Looks Like ==<br />
<br />
== Specification ==<br />
<br />
== Accessories ==<br />
<br />
Milling vice. Digital caliper-type XYZ readouts. Dial indicator and mounting.<br />
<br />
== Tooling ==<br />
<br />
== Documentation ==<br />
<br />
http://www.hobbytools.ro/images/user_files/files/Milling%2520machines%2520F1200-CC-F1200-F1210-CC-F1210-F1410LF-CC-F1410LF.pdf<br />
<br />
http://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/image/data/f1200toccf1210hs%20Copy%201.pdf<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
<br />
Do not, ''ever'', use an ordinary Jacobs-type drill chuck to hold milling tools. Collet chucks are a much more secure and safe way of holding such tools (a drill-chuck is fine when the operating force is along the axis, but will loosen dangerously if sideways forces are applied).<br />
<br />
== Issues ==<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Fox_Bandsaw&diff=13580Fox Bandsaw2017-11-02T17:40:02Z<p>Aprice: removed from space</p>
<hr />
<div>'''HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM THE SPACE'''<br />
Named '''Ash''', in the dusty area of the workshop, for ''wood'' cutting.<br />
<br />
== Specification ==<br />
* Model: Fox 2560mm two-speed bandsaw<br />
* Motor: 1500W-240V (2hp)<br />
* Blade Length: 2560mm<br />
* Blade Width Capacity: 6 - 35mm<br />
* Blade Speeds: 400 & 850m / min<br />
* Max Cutting Capacity (Throat Depth): 344mm<br />
* Max Cutting Height: 230mm<br />
* Table Height: 995mm<br />
* Table size: 548x 400mm<br />
* Table Tilt Range: 0°- 45°<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
<br />
You should wear eye protection when using this tool.<br />
<br />
Keep fingers, hair, loose clothing away from the blade / cutting area.<br />
<br />
Know the limitations of the machine ''and the blade currently fitted''.<br />
<br />
== Usage ==<br />
<br />
The scales on the front edge of the table don't appear to line up with the blade. They are ''not supposed to'', they correspond to the two positions that the aluminium fence can be fitted.<br />
<br />
After use, use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the machine and its surroundings and also from inside the lower compartment.<br />
<br />
The upper blade guard / support should be adjusted so that it sits just above the material to be cut, maximising the stability of the blade.<br />
<br />
[[File:WBlade_guide_in_use.jpg|options|guide positioned close to top of material]]<br />
<br />
[[File:WBlade_guide_adjustment_and_lock.jpg|options|guide adjustment and locking]]<br />
<br />
The guard is locked in place with the rhomboid-nut, and when this is loosened, the guard can be adjusted up and down <del>with the handwheel</del> using a spanner on the nuts locked on the adjustment shaft. A replacement handwheel will be found and fitted to replace the broken original.<br />
<br />
After use, the guard should be left unsecured at its lowest position - this will encourage proper setting every time the saw is used which reduces the risk of blade breakage.<br />
<br />
[[File:WBladeGuide_when_not_in_use.jpg|options|guide when not in use]]<br />
<br />
The fence has two positions for the guide edge - one for thin, and one for thick material.<br />
<br />
Switching between these requires the two locking nuts to be loosened only - not removed - as there is a metal strip which holds everything in place while the guide is re-fitted as shown here:<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:WFence_for_cutting_thin_material.jpg|fence for thin material<br />
File:WFence_adjusted_for_thicker_material.jpg|fence for thicker material<br />
File:WFence_attachment.jpg|fence fixing strip<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Blades ==<br />
<br />
The installed blade (06:42, 16 February 2014 (EST)) is 3/4" wide, 4 teeth per inch, for general-purpose wood cutting.<br />
<br />
The blade should have three teeth in the material being cut at all times. So a 4tpi blade works with a minimum material thickness of 3/4". Cutting material thinner than this limit may result in rough, splintered results.<br />
<br />
Conversely, a 10tpi blade won't cut thick material well, as sawdust will be trapped in the gullets for longer, resulting in overheating, shortening the life of the blade and risk scorching the material.<br />
<br />
== Issues ==<br />
<br />
After being in use for a couple of months, it became apparent that cuts were way off-square in relation to the fence - often 'wandering' from the very start of the cut. The plastic table-filler was also badly cut to one side of the slot. One possible reason was a poor-quality blade as supplied, but we dismantled the saw guides and found that the lower one had been assembled (supplied) incorrectly fitted, and this was causing a bias to one side. Re-fitting the guides top and bottom was tricky (poor design) and some metal needed to be removed from the aluminium top-guide support to allow a more reasonable range of adjustment.<br />
<br />
Next day, the blade broke!<br />
<br />
A replacement blade (and spare) was bought from a [www.bandsawblades-direct.co.uk local supplier] and the original blade turns out to have been made from too thin material for the kind of work expected. The new blade has been fitted, the guides adjusted, and all now seems to be well.<br />
<br />
June 2014. The blade broke! This may have been the result of cutting too-thin MDF with the upper guide too high. This had been stiff-to-adjust for a while, and when the blade was replaced, could not be moved down. This is caused by dust accumulating in the raising mechanism, jamming the rack-and-pinion.<br />
<br />
Cleaning the raising mechanism required the top wheel to be removed and major, awkward dismantling, so it is recommended that a major cleaning service is carried out whenever the blade is replaced.<br />
<br />
January 2015 - blade jammed and motor wouldn't turn. Examination showed one of the lower guide bearings has shed its shield cover and two other bearings were seized. Replacements bought and fitted. <del>Currently cutting on a bias - needs attention.</del><br />
<br />
April 2015 - Blade broken once more. Replacement fitted, but the saw left incorrectly set up. <B>If you don't know what the various adjusting knobs do, don't touch them</B>. Blade is slightly kinked and won't last long. Replacement fence-clamp (from Alltools) received and fitted.<br />
<br />
Blade jammed and would only turn (by hand) backwards. The internal securing nut for the table backstop undone and fallen into the blade / wheel. Fixed.<br />
<br />
May 2015 - Blade coming off the lower wheel, and jamming. Found to be misused - the blade tension 'switch' off, and it's handle unscrewed from the boss. Similarly the fence clamp handle unscrewed. Why do people do this - these handles don't operate by rotation at all?! Needs a strip-down and clean and re-alignment once more.<br />
<br />
== Guide Fitting and Adjustment ==<br />
<br />
For maintainers. The upper guide is secured using two self-tapping screws into an aluminium extrusion - check for looseness here (long-term will probably fail completely). The upper guide can be removed most easily by undoing the grub screw further than just loosening, so that the guide rotates down on its post, when it can be removed.<br />
<br />
The lower guide is best adjusted by popping out the plastic table-infill and using a LED lamp from below, getting a good view from above and using hands / tools below the table. The fixed metal plate guard / guide rubs the right-hand side of the blade - this will need fixing to avoid long-term damage. Note that the fixings for this are in rectangular holes to allow fore-aft adjustment (not apparent if adjustment attempted from below the table).<br />
<br />
Major adjustments may be needed after a jam or breakdown. If this happens it is best to remove all the guides, and start from checking the blade tracking (it runs <i>forward</i> on the top wheel and <i>rearward</i> on the lower one) and smooth operation before the guides are fitted. Then, at each stage noise / rubbing can be detected and corrected.<br />
<br />
== History / Discussion / Pledge Drive ==<br />
<br />
See [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/nottinghack/0LWX36Om8GQ Google group] for original discussion, together with the suggestion that it be used for cutting larger pieces of timber - opening up the possibility that we also get a Scrollsaw for fine, curved work.<br />
<br />
The [[#Pledge Details|Pledge Drive]] is still running - ad-hoc donations towards additional blades, and accessories are always welcome!<br />
<br />
Currently the workshop has a [[Bandsaw]]. Jake posted a message on the Google groups pointing out:<br />
<br />
"The current bandsaw gets a lot of use. Since we bought a new pillar drill a larger floor standing bandsaw seems like the next logical step.<br />
<br />
It's also not perfect, the blade wanders, and it doesn't have a steady cut speed, it seems to cut well then appears to slow down, plus the vibrations cause the blade to move around a lot. In general it can be a pain to do some work on it.<br />
<br />
To that end, a pledge was started, in order to prompt the purchase of a better bandsaw. Suitable models (listed below) costing in the range £350 - £500 are being considered, <br />
<br />
Possible saws to choose from (extracted from the Google Group):<br />
<br />
£370 http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/METBAS317<br />
<br />
£478 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/bas317-305mm-bandsaw?da=1&TC=SRC-bandsaw<br />
<br />
£500 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOX-F28-194B-2560mm-240v-Bandsaw-344-x-230mm-cutting-capacity-3Yr-Warranty-/150913708967<br />
<br />
Wide range: http://www.poolewood.co.uk/acatalog/Band_Saws.html<br />
<br />
''''''FOX BANDSAW IS CURRENTLY NOT OPERATIONAL'''<br />
<br />
== Pledge Details ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Name<br />
!Amount<br />
!Paid<br />
!Notes<br />
|-<br />
|Gazz ||£5||Y|| In cashbox<br />
|-<br />
|Seb Price ||£10||Y|| In cashbox<br />
|-<br />
|Wendy ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Andrew Th ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|David C ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer 2/10/13<br />
|-<br />
|Dominic ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Gareth ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Ian D ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Jake ||£10||N||<br />
|-<br />
|James F ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|James H ||£20||Y||<br />
|-<br />
|Joe ||£20||N||<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Little ||£10||Y|| Bank Transfer 27/9/13<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Lloyd ||£10||Y|| Bank Transfer 2/10/13<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Spandex||£10||N||<br />
|-<br />
|Michael E ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Rave ||£10||Y|| Bank Xfer<br />
|}<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Kity_Table_Saw&diff=13560Kity Table Saw2017-10-08T19:25:18Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''TODO:''' pictures, English manual<br />
* Model: Kity Série 8 819<br />
* Datasheet (in Deutsch): [[File:kib_819.pdf]]<br />
* HSE information sheet: [[File:Wis16.pdf|Circular saw benches – Safe working practices]]<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Kity-cross-cut.png|Crosscut sled<br />
File:Qrcode.31760444.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Overview ==<br />
The table saw is arguably the most dangerous power tool in the workshop.<br />
<br />
Induction on the table saw?<br />
<br />
Whether or not we end up with a proper induction syllabus, there are a whole bunch of things we want our members to know when using this tool. Maybe we want them to demonstrate their competence. Maybe we want them to think seriously about the tools provided.<br />
<br />
Induction needn’t be long-winded or exhaustive but should be appropriate to the particular user - they may need teaching how to use the saw from scratch!<br />
<br />
How do I assess if somebody is competent to work with a particular tool. “Do I trust this person to do x,y,z safely?” I’d like the opportunity to just chat and ask them questions.<br />
<br />
What about people that have used the same/similar tools for years?<br />
Same/similar tool? This exact model? Do you know the caveats with this particular unit we have?<br />
<br />
== Signage ideas ==<br />
Standard sign: “This machine requires and induction before use”<br />
QRCode and human-readable link to point people straight to the wiki page for the TableSaw tool induction information.<br />
<br />
And this sign should be on everything!<br />
STOP! Do not use this tool unless you are going to clean up after yourself. <br />
<br />
== Safety induction ideas ==<br />
“Compulsory” videos to watch - we could even watch them with the members and raise some discussion points.<br />
I have 2 videos that would be a good grounding: -<br />
Dan Gelbart, Building Prototypes part 2 of 18 Safety: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1H9ei8-6tEM<br />
Jimmy DiResta Table Saw Tips: https://youtu.be/UKWIZM9aI5Y<br />
The New Yankee Workshop Table Saw 101 is ideal but not freely available on YouTube<br />
NB: not all these tips are suitable for our tools - if in doubt, ask! <br />
<br />
= IMPORTANT RULES FOR USE =<br />
* Do not assume that the previous user has left the tablesaw in a safe and well-adjusted condition<br />
* '''Use the dust extraction'''<br />
* Check that the floor is free of loose sawdust and debris<br />
* Use eye and ear protection<br />
* Learn how to make adjustments on this model before you start work<br />
* Know where to stand to avoid trouble<br />
* Understand the causes of binding and kickback<br />
* Never use the rip fence as a guide for cutting wood to length. The offcut piece is likely to become trapped between the fence and the saw blade and pose a serious kickback hazard.<br />
* Shut down the machine for all adjustments and cleaning<br />
* Especially avoid leaning or reaching over the moving blade<br />
* Always use the push sticks provided (or make your own)<br />
* Shut down the machine before retrieving work and offcuts from the outfeed table or use a pushstick to move a piece into a safe position to reach<br />
* If in doubt, ask!<br />
<br />
== Don’t remove the guard ==<br />
* if you think you need to remove the guard then you are probably using the wrong tool or using the tool wrong<br />
* find another way of doing it<br />
* consider using the router for blind (non-through) cut (avoiding riving knife/guard)<br />
* a temporary guard or jig can be constructed<br />
* consider using the deep bandsaw for tall cuts (max. 104mm) that would foul the guard body of fixings<br />
<br />
== Cross cutting ==<br />
Consider using the chop saw (usually the right tool for the job)<br />
Never use the long rip fence when crosscutting boards<br />
for accurate lengths use a shorter secondary fence or a stop on the sliding carriage<br />
<br />
== Don’t be a douchebag/contemptible fellow ==<br />
* Think ahead: do you have time to tidy up? If not then don’t start the job<br />
* Immediately after use, sweep down the machine THEN sweep the floor (and put the dust in the bin!)<br />
* Don’t leave your offcuts or spare materials - take them away and put them in the right place (bin, small blocks area, materials area, home)<br />
<br />
= Adjustments and alignment =<br />
<br />
TODO: photos<br />
<br />
* blade height wheel (and lock screw) - TODO document the badly worn spindle<br />
* blade angle wheel (and lock screw)<br />
* fence attachment flip - temporary, sacrificial fences<br />
* Sliding carriage lock<br />
* crosscut attachment fitting and removal<br />
* zero-clearance throat plates<br />
* blade replacement<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Fox_Bandsaw&diff=13559Fox Bandsaw2017-10-08T19:24:30Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>Named '''Ash''', in the dusty area of the workshop, for ''wood'' cutting.<br />
<br />
== Specification ==<br />
* Model: Fox 2560mm two-speed bandsaw<br />
* Motor: 1500W-240V (2hp)<br />
* Blade Length: 2560mm<br />
* Blade Width Capacity: 6 - 35mm<br />
* Blade Speeds: 400 & 850m / min<br />
* Max Cutting Capacity (Throat Depth): 344mm<br />
* Max Cutting Height: 230mm<br />
* Table Height: 995mm<br />
* Table size: 548x 400mm<br />
* Table Tilt Range: 0°- 45°<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
<br />
You should wear eye protection when using this tool.<br />
<br />
Keep fingers, hair, loose clothing away from the blade / cutting area.<br />
<br />
Know the limitations of the machine ''and the blade currently fitted''.<br />
<br />
== Usage ==<br />
<br />
The scales on the front edge of the table don't appear to line up with the blade. They are ''not supposed to'', they correspond to the two positions that the aluminium fence can be fitted.<br />
<br />
After use, use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the machine and its surroundings and also from inside the lower compartment.<br />
<br />
The upper blade guard / support should be adjusted so that it sits just above the material to be cut, maximising the stability of the blade.<br />
<br />
[[File:WBlade_guide_in_use.jpg|options|guide positioned close to top of material]]<br />
<br />
[[File:WBlade_guide_adjustment_and_lock.jpg|options|guide adjustment and locking]]<br />
<br />
The guard is locked in place with the rhomboid-nut, and when this is loosened, the guard can be adjusted up and down <del>with the handwheel</del> using a spanner on the nuts locked on the adjustment shaft. A replacement handwheel will be found and fitted to replace the broken original.<br />
<br />
After use, the guard should be left unsecured at its lowest position - this will encourage proper setting every time the saw is used which reduces the risk of blade breakage.<br />
<br />
[[File:WBladeGuide_when_not_in_use.jpg|options|guide when not in use]]<br />
<br />
The fence has two positions for the guide edge - one for thin, and one for thick material.<br />
<br />
Switching between these requires the two locking nuts to be loosened only - not removed - as there is a metal strip which holds everything in place while the guide is re-fitted as shown here:<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:WFence_for_cutting_thin_material.jpg|fence for thin material<br />
File:WFence_adjusted_for_thicker_material.jpg|fence for thicker material<br />
File:WFence_attachment.jpg|fence fixing strip<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Blades ==<br />
<br />
The installed blade (06:42, 16 February 2014 (EST)) is 3/4" wide, 4 teeth per inch, for general-purpose wood cutting.<br />
<br />
The blade should have three teeth in the material being cut at all times. So a 4tpi blade works with a minimum material thickness of 3/4". Cutting material thinner than this limit may result in rough, splintered results.<br />
<br />
Conversely, a 10tpi blade won't cut thick material well, as sawdust will be trapped in the gullets for longer, resulting in overheating, shortening the life of the blade and risk scorching the material.<br />
<br />
== Issues ==<br />
<br />
After being in use for a couple of months, it became apparent that cuts were way off-square in relation to the fence - often 'wandering' from the very start of the cut. The plastic table-filler was also badly cut to one side of the slot. One possible reason was a poor-quality blade as supplied, but we dismantled the saw guides and found that the lower one had been assembled (supplied) incorrectly fitted, and this was causing a bias to one side. Re-fitting the guides top and bottom was tricky (poor design) and some metal needed to be removed from the aluminium top-guide support to allow a more reasonable range of adjustment.<br />
<br />
Next day, the blade broke!<br />
<br />
A replacement blade (and spare) was bought from a [www.bandsawblades-direct.co.uk local supplier] and the original blade turns out to have been made from too thin material for the kind of work expected. The new blade has been fitted, the guides adjusted, and all now seems to be well.<br />
<br />
June 2014. The blade broke! This may have been the result of cutting too-thin MDF with the upper guide too high. This had been stiff-to-adjust for a while, and when the blade was replaced, could not be moved down. This is caused by dust accumulating in the raising mechanism, jamming the rack-and-pinion.<br />
<br />
Cleaning the raising mechanism required the top wheel to be removed and major, awkward dismantling, so it is recommended that a major cleaning service is carried out whenever the blade is replaced.<br />
<br />
January 2015 - blade jammed and motor wouldn't turn. Examination showed one of the lower guide bearings has shed its shield cover and two other bearings were seized. Replacements bought and fitted. <del>Currently cutting on a bias - needs attention.</del><br />
<br />
April 2015 - Blade broken once more. Replacement fitted, but the saw left incorrectly set up. <B>If you don't know what the various adjusting knobs do, don't touch them</B>. Blade is slightly kinked and won't last long. Replacement fence-clamp (from Alltools) received and fitted.<br />
<br />
Blade jammed and would only turn (by hand) backwards. The internal securing nut for the table backstop undone and fallen into the blade / wheel. Fixed.<br />
<br />
May 2015 - Blade coming off the lower wheel, and jamming. Found to be misused - the blade tension 'switch' off, and it's handle unscrewed from the boss. Similarly the fence clamp handle unscrewed. Why do people do this - these handles don't operate by rotation at all?! Needs a strip-down and clean and re-alignment once more.<br />
<br />
== Guide Fitting and Adjustment ==<br />
<br />
For maintainers. The upper guide is secured using two self-tapping screws into an aluminium extrusion - check for looseness here (long-term will probably fail completely). The upper guide can be removed most easily by undoing the grub screw further than just loosening, so that the guide rotates down on its post, when it can be removed.<br />
<br />
The lower guide is best adjusted by popping out the plastic table-infill and using a LED lamp from below, getting a good view from above and using hands / tools below the table. The fixed metal plate guard / guide rubs the right-hand side of the blade - this will need fixing to avoid long-term damage. Note that the fixings for this are in rectangular holes to allow fore-aft adjustment (not apparent if adjustment attempted from below the table).<br />
<br />
Major adjustments may be needed after a jam or breakdown. If this happens it is best to remove all the guides, and start from checking the blade tracking (it runs <i>forward</i> on the top wheel and <i>rearward</i> on the lower one) and smooth operation before the guides are fitted. Then, at each stage noise / rubbing can be detected and corrected.<br />
<br />
== History / Discussion / Pledge Drive ==<br />
<br />
See [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/nottinghack/0LWX36Om8GQ Google group] for original discussion, together with the suggestion that it be used for cutting larger pieces of timber - opening up the possibility that we also get a Scrollsaw for fine, curved work.<br />
<br />
The [[#Pledge Details|Pledge Drive]] is still running - ad-hoc donations towards additional blades, and accessories are always welcome!<br />
<br />
Currently the workshop has a [[Bandsaw]]. Jake posted a message on the Google groups pointing out:<br />
<br />
"The current bandsaw gets a lot of use. Since we bought a new pillar drill a larger floor standing bandsaw seems like the next logical step.<br />
<br />
It's also not perfect, the blade wanders, and it doesn't have a steady cut speed, it seems to cut well then appears to slow down, plus the vibrations cause the blade to move around a lot. In general it can be a pain to do some work on it.<br />
<br />
To that end, a pledge was started, in order to prompt the purchase of a better bandsaw. Suitable models (listed below) costing in the range £350 - £500 are being considered, <br />
<br />
Possible saws to choose from (extracted from the Google Group):<br />
<br />
£370 http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/METBAS317<br />
<br />
£478 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/bas317-305mm-bandsaw?da=1&TC=SRC-bandsaw<br />
<br />
£500 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOX-F28-194B-2560mm-240v-Bandsaw-344-x-230mm-cutting-capacity-3Yr-Warranty-/150913708967<br />
<br />
Wide range: http://www.poolewood.co.uk/acatalog/Band_Saws.html<br />
<br />
''''''FOX BANDSAW IS CURRENTLY NOT OPERATIONAL'''<br />
<br />
== Pledge Details ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Name<br />
!Amount<br />
!Paid<br />
!Notes<br />
|-<br />
|Gazz ||£5||Y|| In cashbox<br />
|-<br />
|Seb Price ||£10||Y|| In cashbox<br />
|-<br />
|Wendy ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Andrew Th ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|David C ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer 2/10/13<br />
|-<br />
|Dominic ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Gareth ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Ian D ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Jake ||£10||N||<br />
|-<br />
|James F ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|James H ||£20||Y||<br />
|-<br />
|Joe ||£20||N||<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Little ||£10||Y|| Bank Transfer 27/9/13<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Lloyd ||£10||Y|| Bank Transfer 2/10/13<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Spandex||£10||N||<br />
|-<br />
|Michael E ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Rave ||£10||Y|| Bank Xfer<br />
|}<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Fox_Bandsaw&diff=13558Fox Bandsaw2017-10-08T19:23:51Z<p>Aprice: </p>
<hr />
<div>Named '''Ash''', in the dusty area of the workshop, for ''wood'' cutting.<br />
<br />
== Specification ==<br />
* Model: Fox 2560mm two-speed bandsaw<br />
* Motor: 1500W-240V (2hp)<br />
* Blade Length: 2560mm<br />
* Blade Width Capacity: 6 - 35mm<br />
* Blade Speeds: 400 & 850m / min<br />
* Max Cutting Capacity (Throat Depth): 344mm<br />
* Max Cutting Height: 230mm<br />
* Table Height: 995mm<br />
* Table size: 548x 400mm<br />
* Table Tilt Range: 0°- 45°<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
<br />
You should wear eye protection when using this tool.<br />
<br />
Keep fingers, hair, loose clothing away from the blade / cutting area.<br />
<br />
Know the limitations of the machine ''and the blade currently fitted''.<br />
<br />
== Usage ==<br />
<br />
The scales on the front edge of the table don't appear to line up with the blade. They are ''not supposed to'', they correspond to the two positions that the aluminium fence can be fitted.<br />
<br />
After use, use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the machine and its surroundings and also from inside the lower compartment.<br />
<br />
The upper blade guard / support should be adjusted so that it sits just above the material to be cut, maximising the stability of the blade.<br />
<br />
[[File:WBlade_guide_in_use.jpg|options|guide positioned close to top of material]]<br />
<br />
[[File:WBlade_guide_adjustment_and_lock.jpg|options|guide adjustment and locking]]<br />
<br />
The guard is locked in place with the rhomboid-nut, and when this is loosened, the guard can be adjusted up and down <del>with the handwheel</del> using a spanner on the nuts locked on the adjustment shaft. A replacement handwheel will be found and fitted to replace the broken original.<br />
<br />
After use, the guard should be left unsecured at its lowest position - this will encourage proper setting every time the saw is used which reduces the risk of blade breakage.<br />
<br />
[[File:WBladeGuide_when_not_in_use.jpg|options|guide when not in use]]<br />
<br />
The fence has two positions for the guide edge - one for thin, and one for thick material.<br />
<br />
Switching between these requires the two locking nuts to be loosened only - not removed - as there is a metal strip which holds everything in place while the guide is re-fitted as shown here:<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:WFence_for_cutting_thin_material.jpg|fence for thin material<br />
File:WFence_adjusted_for_thicker_material.jpg|fence for thicker material<br />
File:WFence_attachment.jpg|fence fixing strip<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Blades ==<br />
<br />
The installed blade (06:42, 16 February 2014 (EST)) is 3/4" wide, 4 teeth per inch, for general-purpose wood cutting.<br />
<br />
The blade should have three teeth in the material being cut at all times. So a 4tpi blade works with a minimum material thickness of 3/4". Cutting material thinner than this limit may result in rough, splintered results.<br />
<br />
Conversely, a 10tpi blade won't cut thick material well, as sawdust will be trapped in the gullets for longer, resulting in overheating, shortening the life of the blade and risk scorching the material.<br />
<br />
== Issues ==<br />
<br />
After being in use for a couple of months, it became apparent that cuts were way off-square in relation to the fence - often 'wandering' from the very start of the cut. The plastic table-filler was also badly cut to one side of the slot. One possible reason was a poor-quality blade as supplied, but we dismantled the saw guides and found that the lower one had been assembled (supplied) incorrectly fitted, and this was causing a bias to one side. Re-fitting the guides top and bottom was tricky (poor design) and some metal needed to be removed from the aluminium top-guide support to allow a more reasonable range of adjustment.<br />
<br />
Next day, the blade broke!<br />
<br />
A replacement blade (and spare) was bought from a [www.bandsawblades-direct.co.uk local supplier] and the original blade turns out to have been made from too thin material for the kind of work expected. The new blade has been fitted, the guides adjusted, and all now seems to be well.<br />
<br />
June 2014. The blade broke! This may have been the result of cutting too-thin MDF with the upper guide too high. This had been stiff-to-adjust for a while, and when the blade was replaced, could not be moved down. This is caused by dust accumulating in the raising mechanism, jamming the rack-and-pinion.<br />
<br />
Cleaning the raising mechanism required the top wheel to be removed and major, awkward dismantling, so it is recommended that a major cleaning service is carried out whenever the blade is replaced.<br />
<br />
January 2015 - blade jammed and motor wouldn't turn. Examination showed one of the lower guide bearings has shed its shield cover and two other bearings were seized. Replacements bought and fitted. <del>Currently cutting on a bias - needs attention.</del><br />
<br />
April 2015 - Blade broken once more. Replacement fitted, but the saw left incorrectly set up. <B>If you don't know what the various adjusting knobs do, don't touch them</B>. Blade is slightly kinked and won't last long. Replacement fence-clamp (from Alltools) received and fitted.<br />
<br />
Blade jammed and would only turn (by hand) backwards. The internal securing nut for the table backstop undone and fallen into the blade / wheel. Fixed.<br />
<br />
May 2015 - Blade coming off the lower wheel, and jamming. Found to be misused - the blade tension 'switch' off, and it's handle unscrewed from the boss. Similarly the fence clamp handle unscrewed. Why do people do this - these handles don't operate by rotation at all?! Needs a strip-down and clean and re-alignment once more.<br />
<br />
== Guide Fitting and Adjustment ==<br />
<br />
For maintainers. The upper guide is secured using two self-tapping screws into an aluminium extrusion - check for looseness here (long-term will probably fail completely). The upper guide can be removed most easily by undoing the grub screw further than just loosening, so that the guide rotates down on its post, when it can be removed.<br />
<br />
The lower guide is best adjusted by popping out the plastic table-infill and using a LED lamp from below, getting a good view from above and using hands / tools below the table. The fixed metal plate guard / guide rubs the right-hand side of the blade - this will need fixing to avoid long-term damage. Note that the fixings for this are in rectangular holes to allow fore-aft adjustment (not apparent if adjustment attempted from below the table).<br />
<br />
Major adjustments may be needed after a jam or breakdown. If this happens it is best to remove all the guides, and start from checking the blade tracking (it runs <i>forward</i> on the top wheel and <i>rearward</i> on the lower one) and smooth operation before the guides are fitted. Then, at each stage noise / rubbing can be detected and corrected.<br />
<br />
== History / Discussion / Pledge Drive ==<br />
<br />
See [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/nottinghack/0LWX36Om8GQ Google group] for original discussion, together with the suggestion that it be used for cutting larger pieces of timber - opening up the possibility that we also get a Scrollsaw for fine, curved work.<br />
<br />
The [[#Pledge Details|Pledge Drive]] is still running - ad-hoc donations towards additional blades, and accessories are always welcome!<br />
<br />
Currently the workshop has a [[Bandsaw]]. Jake posted a message on the Google groups pointing out:<br />
<br />
"The current bandsaw gets a lot of use. Since we bought a new pillar drill a larger floor standing bandsaw seems like the next logical step.<br />
<br />
It's also not perfect, the blade wanders, and it doesn't have a steady cut speed, it seems to cut well then appears to slow down, plus the vibrations cause the blade to move around a lot. In general it can be a pain to do some work on it.<br />
<br />
To that end, a pledge was started, in order to prompt the purchase of a better bandsaw. Suitable models (listed below) costing in the range £350 - £500 are being considered, <br />
<br />
Possible saws to choose from (extracted from the Google Group):<br />
<br />
£370 http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/METBAS317<br />
<br />
£478 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/bas317-305mm-bandsaw?da=1&TC=SRC-bandsaw<br />
<br />
£500 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOX-F28-194B-2560mm-240v-Bandsaw-344-x-230mm-cutting-capacity-3Yr-Warranty-/150913708967<br />
<br />
Wide range: http://www.poolewood.co.uk/acatalog/Band_Saws.html<br />
<br />
FOX BANDSAW IS CURRRENTLY NOT OPERATIONAL<br />
<br />
== Pledge Details ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Name<br />
!Amount<br />
!Paid<br />
!Notes<br />
|-<br />
|Gazz ||£5||Y|| In cashbox<br />
|-<br />
|Seb Price ||£10||Y|| In cashbox<br />
|-<br />
|Wendy ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Andrew Th ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|David C ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer 2/10/13<br />
|-<br />
|Dominic ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Gareth ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Ian D ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Jake ||£10||N||<br />
|-<br />
|James F ||£20||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|James H ||£20||Y||<br />
|-<br />
|Joe ||£20||N||<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Little ||£10||Y|| Bank Transfer 27/9/13<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Lloyd ||£10||Y|| Bank Transfer 2/10/13<br />
|-<br />
|Matt Spandex||£10||N||<br />
|-<br />
|Michael E ||£10||Y|| Bank transfer<br />
|-<br />
|Rave ||£10||Y|| Bank Xfer<br />
|}<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Apricehttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Financials_2017_August&diff=13557Financials 2017 August2017-10-08T19:22:49Z<p>Aprice: /* In/out Breakdown */</p>
<hr />
<div>A breakdown of our finances for the month of August, 2017.<br />
<br />
==Quick summary==<br />
<br />
Overall Assets: £28,536.79<br />
<br />
'''Current Assets''' £17,864.79 <br/> <br />
Petty Cash £709.38<br/> <br />
FairFX £1,867.73 <br/> <br />
Natwest Account £0 <br/><br />
Paypal £5.58 <br/> <br />
TSB Account £15,282.10 <br/><br />
'''Other Assets''' <br/> <br />
Fixed Assets £3,822.00 <br/> <br />
Rental Deposit £6,850.00<br/><br />
<br />
==In/out Breakdown==<br />
<br />
Income:Donations £6.00<br/><br />
Income:Inductions:Embroidery Induction £20.00<br/><br />
Income:Inductions:Laser Induction £10.00<br/><br />
Income:Membership Payments £4,063.28<br/><br />
Income:Snackspace £600.00<br/><br />
'''Money In £4,699.28'''<br/><br />
<br />
<br />
Expenses:BOC Gas £26.70<br/><br />
Expenses:Bank Service Charge £12.50<br/><br />
Expenses:Bizspace Rent:F6 £1,063.20<br/><br />
Expenses:Bizspace Rent:G4,5,6 £1,629.60<br/><br />
Expenses:Insurance £102.74<br/><br />
Expenses:Member Loan Repayments:Intrest Payments £80.83<br/><br />
Expenses:Teams:Hackspace 2.5 £651.94<br/><br />
Expenses:Teams:Network and Servers £55.54<br/><br />
Expenses:Teams:Safety £105.90<br/><br />
Expenses:Teams:Snackspace £114.67<br/><br />
Expenses:Utilities:Council Tax £193.00<br/><br />
Expenses:Utilities:Electric £568.63<br/><br />
Expenses:Utilities:Internet £47.89<br/><br />
Expenses:Utilities:Water £39.03<br/><br />
Liabilities:Membership Loan Payable £354.17<br/><br />
'''Money Out £5,046.34'''<br/><br />
<br />
'''Difference -£347.06'''<br/><br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category: Financials|^Year 7^]]</div>Aprice