https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Tasos&feedformat=atomNottinghack Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T14:22:56ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.35.1https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Boxford_Laser_Cutter_2023_Pledge_Drive&diff=27196Boxford Laser Cutter 2023 Pledge Drive2023-08-01T09:32:37Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a pledge drive to purchase a second hand Boxford BGL1390 laser cutter from a local person who has offered it at a good price and has kept it in good condition, with light usage. If purchased it'd replace the current 9 year old laser (which would likely be sold).<br />
<br />
[[File:BGL1390.jpg|300px|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Brochure from Boxford: https://www.boxford.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/BGL-C02-Laser-Cutting-Engraving-Range-May-2022.pdf<br />
<br />
Photos of the laser: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/80kyyyliwsg8rh18jk6lo/h?rlkey=b2k8wxdh2lxjbks5a3uik5syv&dl=0<br />
<br />
Feel free to discuss this on [[Discord]]!<br />
<br />
[[#Pledge List|Add your pledge to the bottom of the page]] if you have a wiki account (the password is the same as your HMS account, but make sure you use your HMS username rather than email address) but if you can't access let the [[trustees]] know. Your pledge money will be requested once the pledge is fulfilled and once we have the money the laser will be purchased.<br />
<br />
== Pledge Aims ==<br />
<br />
£3600 - Base pledge for the Boxford Laser Cutter and assorted parts:<br />
* 100W Laser<br />
* Lightburn based controller<br />
* Built in chiller<br />
* Camera with automatic laser focus (the autofocus will be repaired and may not be immediately available)<br />
* Rotary attachment (brand new/unused)<br />
* 1 x Lens with narrower beam for deeper cutting<br />
* 2 x Lenses best for engraving and shallow cuts (caveat; we are not allowing members to swap lenses they may be used in particular workshops however)<br />
* Lightburn Software (3 keys) and Boxford material library<br />
* Misc Spare materials (will be used for workshops)<br />
<br />
If we reach £3600 and go over money will go towards the below items:<br />
<br />
* Transport and installation<br />
* Spare mirrors and lenses<br />
* Improvements to the laser area<br />
* Running the Hackspace<br />
<br />
== Pledge Money for Laser Time and Inductions Information ==<br />
<br />
Like the first laser cutter pledge we will be allowing the pledge money to be also used against the cost of using the laser in the future.<br />
<br />
It has been decided by the Trustees the cost will '''not''' be increasing from £3 per hour which is judged to keep it at a good, affordable level and cover usage, parts and repairs.<br />
<br />
To use the new laser cutter you will need a safety and Lightburn software induction. If you have already had an induction on the current laser this will be free and these will be done in groups. The laser team is prepared to commit the time to do this.<br />
<br />
Inductions for members not already inducted on the current laser will continue to be paid one to one sessions bookable on HMS (cost £20).<br />
<br />
== Information and Background on the Boxford Laser Pledge ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Boxford2023.jpg|300px|thumb|Boxford Laser]]<br />
<br />
We were recently offered the opportunity to purchase a laser cutter that is surplus to the requirements of the owner. The machine in question is a Boxford 100W with A0 (1300mm x 900mm) bed.<br />
<br />
It was purchased in 2021 and has had relatively little use, mostly during Covid when their primary business was on hold.<br />
<br />
The machine has a built in chiller, air assist compressor and advanced control panel with screen. It also has front and back pass-through panels that are easily opened and closed, allowing sheet materials larger than the bed to be processed. To assist in maintenance all parts of the system are accessible by removable panels.<br />
<br />
Also included is a rotary attachment which has not yet been used. There is also a camera to assist in positioning work on the bed accurately.<br />
<br />
The laser has been well looked after with the honeycomb bed in excellent condition with only a little residue. It has been tested by the laser team doing cuts and engraves.<br />
<br />
The user had a small fire in the machine that led to one of the clear lid panels being damaged. This has now been made good but unfortunately it also affected the auto focus system which is currently not working and we will be seeking to fixing this as part of the pledge. Other than this, the machine is in good condition and is recommended to us by Dominic and is recommended by the Laser Team for purchase.<br />
<br />
Software is Lightburn which is one of the best laser control programs currently, allowing use of many different file formats including both raster and vector files.<br />
<br />
When new this machine cost £8932, but the owner is looking for £3500 for a quick sale and we want to fix the autofocus for an additional £100 for £3600 total.<br />
<br />
== Our Current Laser ==<br />
<br />
The current laser cutter was discussed in the last Members Meeting, and rightly the question was raised about fixing or improving the current laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Our current laser cutter is currently over 9 years old and in recent times (3-4 years) we have seen multiple problems develop which despite servicing by a professional engineer continue to plague us.<br />
<br />
Lasercut software on the PC has always been unreliable, sometimes failing to load files, even the regularly used induction files from both hard drive and removable media and failure to download files to the laser for cutting. Multiple attempts usually result in success but there is no pattern to the problem.<br />
<br />
Intermittently the laser head will jog around 10mm to either left or right while cutting and continue while maintaining the offset.<br />
<br />
While the base bed on the laser is level, both knife and honeycomb beds have problems with the honeycomb bed having a significant dip in the middle, this may be contributing to uneven cutting with parts of projects not cutting through completely.<br />
<br />
We have also had instances of the cut becoming random during a session, which can result in a waste of materials.<br />
<br />
While some of these issues could be resolved by modifying the laser, we are faced with it being taken offline for indeterminate periods while work is done and tested. This could cause upset amongst users of arguably the most popular tool in the Hackspace, especially as there is no guarantee of the machine being fixed by this work.<br />
<br />
The Laser Team recommends this Pledge Drive to raise the funds required to purchase the Boxford as it will quickly solve the current issues, while giving a significant upgrade in laser performance (25% power increase and much wider capabilities with Lightburn).<br />
<br />
== FAQ ==<br />
<br />
'''How/when will the new laser be installed?'''<br />
<br />
The seller wants it gone ASAP so it could arrive quickly. If we can arrange installation at the same time this will be announced to all members. The lift is currently out of order so will depend on that being fixed.<br />
<br />
The new laser will require a short reinduction as noted before, but these can't occur until the new laser is installed.<br />
<br />
'''What is happening to the old laser?'''<br />
<br />
It will hopefully find a buyer since it is in working order. If you are interested, contact the Trustees!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Pledge List ==<br />
<br />
Add your pledge to the bottom of the page if you have a wiki account (the password is the same as your HMS account) but if you can't access let the [[trustees]] know. Your pledge money will be requested once the pledge is fulfilled and once we have the money the laser will be purchased.<br />
<br />
We are reviewing the pledge list on Saturday 5th of August.<br />
<br />
When paying the code will be LASER2023-XX where XX is your initials. '''Do Not send money until we call in the pledges'''<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Who<br />
! How Much<br />
! Paid?<br />
! Method Paid<br />
|-<br />
| Andrew Armstrong || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Emily Roe || £150 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Andrew Hutson || £210 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Lex Roberts || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Samathy Barratt || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Jon Woodcock || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| John Rider || £300 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Aaron Jackson || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Ax Smith-Laffin || £30 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Jayen Pancholi || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Charlie Cole || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Matthew Walton || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| James Fowkes || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Duncan Fyfe || £200 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Ryan Heath || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Humu Choji || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Arthur Moore || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Barbara Childs || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Malcolm Childs || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Simon Hagan || £30 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Sam Roberts || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Joyce Farnese || £500 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Ian Turner || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Karen Wilson || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Dave Isles || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Graham Sutherland || £25 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Becky Dowson || £25 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Tim Partridge || £150 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Douglas Creek || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Betty Ching || £50 || - || <br />
|-<br />
| Bob Wood || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Simon Bramley || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Andrew Walters || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Niall Freeman || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Howard Smith || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Ian Cutmore || £15 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| David Spence || £15 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Carl Leoni || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Steve Barnett || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Louise Dennis || £75 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Alex Mann || £30 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Joe Newton || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Lee Hutchison || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Jason Alexander || £90 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Peter Wasylko || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Greg Bowring || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Keelan Hegarty || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Daniel Swann || £20 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| James Hayward || £100 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Edward Podgorski || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| James Taylor || £50 || - ||<br />
|-<br />
| Tasos Avgoustidis || £50 || - ||<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker|pledgeGoal=3600}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Laser_cutter/Rotary_Tool/Workshops&diff=13340Laser cutter/Rotary Tool/Workshops2017-03-07T21:44:21Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Rotary Tool Workshops ==<br />
<br />
James Fowkes will run occasional workshops on the rotary tool if there is demand.<br />
<br />
=== Next Workshop: Saturday 11th March 2017 ===<br />
<br />
==== 7:00 pm ====<br />
<br />
# Tasos<br />
# Person 2<br />
# Person 3<br />
# Person 4<br />
<br />
=== Waiting List ===<br />
<br />
* Sam Kelly<br />
* James Hayward<br />
* Nick Baumer<br />
* Paul Meynell</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13316Mug Presses2017-02-20T20:59:53Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection, Calibration (Head Alignment) and Nozzle Check/Cleaning===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Utility tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the Print Head Alignment client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* '''Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page''' (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check in the Utility tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed test page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Head Cleaning tool and then print another test page to check it's come out all with continuous lines. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is about the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing Set button goes like (current Temp reading) --> SH (set Temp) --> St (set time)<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). Note: When you insert the mug in, the heating element will naturally get colder so you will see the temperature reading go down significantly for a while, before stabilising again back at 180C. This is normal and is accounted for in the default time of 160 sec. Also, '''be ready to time the 160 sec externally''' (e.g. with your phone or watch) in case the timer does not work. (It has happened recently that pressing the button to start the countdown has not worked!) <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13315Mug Presses2017-02-19T00:26:47Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection, Calibration (Head Alignment) and Nozzle Check/Cleaning===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Utility tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the Print Head Alignment client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* '''Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page''' (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check in the Utility tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed test page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Head Cleaning tool and then print another test page to check it's come out all with continuous lines. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing Set button goes like (current Temp reading) --> SH (set Temp) --> St (set time)<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). Note: When you insert the mug in, the heating element will naturally get colder so you will see the temperature reading go down significantly for a while, before stabilising again back at 180C. This is normal and is accounted for in the default time of 160 sec. Also, '''be ready to time the 160 sec externally''' (e.g. with your phone or watch) in case the timer does not work. (It has happened recently that pressing the button to start the countdown has not worked!) <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13314Mug Presses2017-02-19T00:25:36Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection, Calibration (Head Alignment) and Nozzle Check/Cleaning===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Utility tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the Print Head Alignment client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* '''Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page''' (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check in the Utility tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed test page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Head Cleaning tool and then print another test page to check it's come out all with continuous lines. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing Set button goes like (current Temp reading) --> SH (set Temp) --> St (set time)<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). Note: When you insert the mug in, the heating element will naturally get colder so you will see the temperature reading go down significantly for a while, before stabilising again back at 180C. This is normal and is accounted for in the default time of 160 sec. Also, ""be ready to time the 160 sec externally"" (e.g. with your phone or watch) in case the timer does not work. (It has happened recently that pressing the button to start the countdown has not worked!) <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13313Mug Presses2017-02-19T00:22:25Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection, Calibration (Head Alignment) and Nozzle Check/Cleaning===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Utility tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the Print Head Alignment client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* '''Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page''' (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check in the Utility tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed test page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Head Cleaning tool and then print another test page to check it's come out all with continuous lines. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing Set button goes like (current Temp reading) --> SH (set Temp) --> St (set time)<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). Note: When you insert the mug in, the heating element will naturally get colder so you will see the temperature reading go down significantly for a while, before stabilising again back at 180C. This is normal and is accounted for in the default time of 160 sec. Also, be ready to time the 160 sec externally (e.g. with your phone or watch) in case the timer does not work. (It has happened recently that pressing the button to start the countdown has not worked!) <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising&diff=13293Hackspace 2.5/Fundraising2017-02-01T00:16:30Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Raising Money For Hackspace 2.5 ==<br />
<br />
=== Pledge Drive ===<br />
<br />
Many generous members have pledged to donate money towards the HS2.5 project. If you would like to join them, please add your name and pledge here! Everyone who pledges gets their name on the ''Wall of Names'' in the studio (unless they don't want to!).<br />
<br />
You should have received an email from the Trustees with payment details.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Who<br />
! How Much<br />
! Paid?<br />
! Method Paid<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:James|James Hayward]] || £200 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| Chris Cain || £200 || Yes ||Xfer (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Lwk|'RepRap' Matt]] || £100 || Yes || Xfer (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Moodybass|John Moody]] || £200 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Msemtd|Michael]] || £100 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Elsen|Soph]] & [[User:Mrwonka|Adam]] || £200 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Freekyboyal|Alex W]] & [[User:Kirkichi|Kirsty]] || £200 || Yes || (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| Anonymous Member || £200 || Yes || (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Robert|Rob Hunt]] || £125 || No ||<br />
|- <br />
| [[User:Chunky|Matt Little]] || £100 || Yes || xfer 2015-12-31 15:00, ref PLEDGE25-MEL (Confirmed)<br />
|- <br />
| [[User:Mousetad|Mouse]] || £100 || Yes || xfer 2015-12-12 17:50ish, ref PLEDGE25-MG (Confirmed)<br />
|- <br />
| [[User:Daniel|Daniel]] || £100 || No ||<br />
|- <br />
| [[User:Jelly|Joshua Kelly]] || £175 || No ||<br />
|- <br />
| [[User:iandickinson|Ian]] & Sue Dickinson || £200 || Yes || Xfer (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:viper1953|Mark Cambridge]] || £100 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:tasos|Tasos]] || £150 || Yes || Xfer on 1/2/17 (Ref: PLEDGE25AA) <br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Kate|Kate]] || £30 || Yes || (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Jodi|Jodi Warren]] || £30 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Rumblotron|John Bell]] || £30 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Froggy|Froggy]] || £100 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| Betty Ching || £30 || Yes || (Confirmend 30)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:jangojarango|Andreas R]] || £50 || Yes || (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:WPyro|Aithne]] || £100 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Trumpettom|Tom Grover]] || £100 || Yes || (15/02/2016) xFer (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Dominic|Dominic & Gill]] || £100 || Yes || Xfer 070316 PLEDGE25DOMINICGIL (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:AndrewArmstrong|Andrew Armstrong]] || £200 || Yes || (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:CPhoenix10|Craig Place]] || £100 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Geekete|Amy Gathercole]] || £50 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Martinez|Javi Martinez]] || £100 || Yes || (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| Tony Shannon || £100 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Dclarke|David Clarke]] || £25 || Yes || Xfer (Confirmed)<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Dex|Rob Haywood]] || £50 || No ||<br />
|-<br />
| John H || £50 || Yes || (Confirmed)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker}}<br />
<br />
=== Crowdfunding Campaign ===<br />
<br />
In addition to a traditional hackspace pledge drive, there will be a crowdfunding campaign hosted on Indiegogo, Go Fund Me or some similar service. This allows us to cast a wider net, and receive funds from non-members and by different payment methods.<br />
<br />
==== Service ====<br />
<br />
Using an online service gives us broader reach, a familiar structure, well tested mechanisms, multiple payment methods for donors, and the brand of the service to reassure people.<br />
<br />
Exactly which service to use is still to be decided. Kickstarter is out because if we don't reach our goal, we get no money, and because they are focued on new products, not extensions to services.<br />
<br />
Indiegogo was sucessfully used by Noisebridge for their reboot, and Go Fund Me is also in the running.<br />
<br />
==== Specific Base Goal ====<br />
<br />
* Target amount: £?<br />
* Expansion of Nottinghack<br />
* Regaining the "biggest hackspace in the UK" crown!<br />
* Making the space fully accessible to wheelchair users<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
==== Stretch Goals ====<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
==== Rewards ====<br />
<br />
We want this list to be unique to the hackspace. Any crowdfunding campaign can give out t-shirts (and we will too), but we have a lot of talented people at the space able to pledge completely unique things - turned wooden sculptures, cool laser-cut lampshades, leather dohickeys, entry to workshops - all sorts! <br />
<br />
This list is quite vague at the moment - we need to expand it, determine values for each reward, make the items more specific by costing them and having volunteers "own" each item, and so on. <br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Reward<br />
! Pledge Amount<br />
! Number Availabale<br />
! Owner<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Limited edition, gold perspex rabbit keyring || £10 || 50 || || <br />
|-<br />
| Eat at hackspace fundraiser roast dinner || £20 || 8 || [[User:Mousetad|Mouse]] ||<br />
|-<br />
| Screen printed t-shirts || £25 || 20 || || <br />
|-<br />
| Have your name etched in to a 50mm x 100mm perspex panel on the ground floor ''Wall Of Names 2.5'' || £4 || || [[User:Sid351|Owen B]] || Random colour<br />
|-<br />
| Have your name etched in to a 100mm x 150mm perspex panel on the ground floor ''Wall Of Names 2.5'' || £8 || || [[User:Sid351|Owen B]] || Random colour <br />
|-<br />
| Have your name etched in to a 150mm x 200mm perspex panel on the ground floor ''Wall Of Names 2.5'' || £16 || || [[User:Sid351|Owen B]] || Random colour<br />
|-<br />
| Upgrade your perspex panel on the ground floor ''Wall Of Names 2.5'' by choosing your own colour || £32 || || [[User:Sid351|Owen B]] || List of colours to be added<br />
|- <br />
| Have your company name etched in to a 100mm x 150mm perspex panel on the ground floor ''Wall Of Names 2.5'' || £64 || || [[User:Sid351|Owen B]] || Random colour<br />
|-<br />
| Have your company name and logo etched in to a 150mm x 200mm perspex panel on the ground floor ''Wall Of Names 2.5'' || £128 || || [[User:Sid351|Owen B]] || Random colour<br />
|-<br />
| Have BarBot come to your personal party / event || £1024 || 1 || [[User:Mousetad|Mouse]] || Oh god, what am I doing?<br />
|-<br />
| A small team of Hackspace members will "bikeshed" your idea or project with you for up to 4 hours || £4096 || 1 || [[User:Sid351|Owen B]] ||<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Increasing Regular Income ===<br />
<br />
In addition to raising a lump sum to cover capital expenditure, we will need to increase our regular income to cover the additional rent and other outgoings associated with the larger space. Possible methods to achieve this:<br />
<br />
* '''Growing our membership''' - the space is already growing, but we can do more to grow faster and to keep members engaged:<br />
** Be more awesome!<br />
** Re-double our outreach efforts at events<br />
** Direct advertising<br />
** Encouraging members to tell their friends and family about the space<br />
** Make efforts to get exposure in the media <br />
* '''Increasing the average monthly payment''' - not everyone can afford to pay a lot to be a member of the space, and that is fine, but those who can, and who feel the space is something they value could be encouraged to increase their monthly payment<br />
* '''Run more workshops''' - and charge for them. <br />
* ...<br />
<br />
=== Meetings ===<br />
* [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising/Meeting_2015-12-09]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Fundraising]]<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:Plasterboarding.jpg&diff=13292File:Plasterboarding.jpg2017-01-31T23:59:13Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:WallFrame.jpg&diff=13291File:WallFrame.jpg2017-01-31T23:58:46Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:StartFrame.jpg&diff=13290File:StartFrame.jpg2017-01-31T23:58:23Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:CLS.jpg&diff=13289File:CLS.jpg2017-01-31T23:57:41Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13288Hackspace 2.52017-01-31T23:57:01Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Painting (September-October 2016):<br />
[[File:PaintersAtWork.jpg|thumb|512px|none|Painters at work]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4, Infrastructure Storage (completed December 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed heights=180px><br />
File:Superstructure.jpg<br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Photos from building wall in G4, Infrastructure Storage (January 2017):<br />
<gallery mode=packed heights=180px><br />
File:CLS.jpg<br />
File:StartFrame.jpg<br />
File:WallFrame.jpg<br />
File:Plasterboarding.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13287User:Tasos2017-01-31T23:42:52Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots and other things 3D printing.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also like using these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too. <br />
<br />
I am a proud member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] teams. I am also one of the inductors for [[3D Printer|our 3D printer]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a multi-material 3D printer, single material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13286Mug Presses2017-01-31T23:36:54Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection, Calibration (Head Alignment) and Nozzle Check/Cleaning===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Utility tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the Print Head Alignment client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* '''Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page''' (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check in the Utility tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed test page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Head Cleaning tool and then print another test page to check it's come out all with continuous lines. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing Set button goes like (current Temp reading) --> SH (set Temp) --> St (set time)<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13285Mug Presses2017-01-31T22:34:32Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection, Calibration (Head Alignment) and Nozzle Check/Cleaning===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Utility tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the Print Head Alignment client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* '''Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page''' (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check in the Utility tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Head Cleaning tool and then print another test page to check it's come out all with continuous lines. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing Set button goes like (current Temp reading) --> SH (set Temp) --> St (set time)<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13284Mug Presses2017-01-31T21:54:42Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection & Calibration===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Calibration tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the calibration client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* '''Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page''' (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Nozzle Clean tool of the printer and then print another test page to check it's all clean. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing the button goes like Set --> Set T --> Set time<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13283Mug Presses2017-01-31T21:54:08Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection & Calibration===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Calibration tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the calibration client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* ""Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page"" (on ordinary paper). Equivalently, you can run the Nozzle Check tool which will ask you to print a test page. Look at the top left corner of the printed page and you should see two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in different colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the Nozzle Clean tool of the printer and then print another test page to check it's all clean. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing the button goes like Set --> Set T --> Set time<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13282Mug Presses2017-01-31T21:49:16Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection & Calibration===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Calibration tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the calibration client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
* Before printing your design on sublimation paper it is a good idea to print a test page (on ordinary paper). Look on the top left corner of the printed page and you should see an two arrays of thin parallel lines (the left one in black, the right one in various colours). If any of these lines is broken, run the nozzle clean tool of the printer print another test page to check it's all clean. You may have to repeat this process. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing the button goes like Set --> Set T --> Set time<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mig_Welder_Pledge&diff=13152Mig Welder Pledge2016-12-21T11:00:42Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>This was a pledge to bid in an online auction for a used mig welder for the space. The welder is an ESAB Mig 510 with a Feed 304. Due to a runaway price on the original machine, the bid was switched to an ESAB law 500 with 12 minutes left.<br />
<br />
This machine was won for £360. Bidspotter put a 15% buyer's premium on it, and there is 20% tax to pay as well so the total bill is expected to be £496.80 Everybody's pledge has been adjusted down to reflect the actual price.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Specs''' (note it's a 500W with voltage and current readouts):<br />
<br />
[http://www.esab.com/gb/en/support/upload/LAW-400-500-LAW-400W-500W.pdf Base Unit]<br />
<br />
[http://www.esab.com/gb/en/support/upload/MEK-4-2.pdf Wire Feeder]<br />
<br />
<br />
== List of pledges ==<br />
[[File:MIG_LAW500W_at_acution.jpg|thumb|right|400px]]<br />
<br />
Please only post on the Google Group mailing list if you really, truly have forgotten your HMS password and need to have someone else to update this.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Who<br />
! How Much<br />
! Paid?<br />
! Method Paid<br />
! Original Pledge<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:jjb|James B]] || £50 || Yes || Xfer 20/12 PLEDGEMIG-JB || £50<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Lwk|&#39;RepRap&#39; Matt]] || £60 || Yes || Xfer 16/12 PLEDGEMIG-ML || £60<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:chriscain|Chris Cain]] || £41.40 || Yes || Bank Xfer || £50<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Mousetad|Mouse]] || £15.00 || Yes || Xfer 18/12 PLEDGEMIG-MNG || £15<br />
|-<br />
| Andrew Walters || £20.70 || No || -- || £25<br />
|-<br />
| Kirsty L || £8.28 || No || -- || £10<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Skipferret|Phil Parry]] || £8.28 || Yes || Bank xfer (ref PLEDGEMIG-PCP) || £10<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Tasos|Tasos]] || £28.98 || Yes || Bank Xfer 21/12 (ref PLEDGEMIGAA) || £35<br />
|-<br />
| Ian Davis || £20.00|| Yes || Bank Xfer || £20<br />
|-<br />
| Matt Little || £16.56 || No || -- || £20<br />
|-<br />
| Jayen Pancholi || £16.56 || Yes || Bank Xfer || £20<br />
|-<br />
| Tom Grover || £24.84 || No || -- || £30<br />
|-<br />
| Paul Meynell || £16.56 || No || -- || £20<br />
|-<br />
| Rob Hunt || £12.42 || No || -- || £15<br />
|-<br />
| Javi || £16.56 || No || -- || £20<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:iandickinson|Ian D]]|| £20.70 || No || -- || £25<br />
|-<br />
| Howard Smith|| £12.42 || No || -- || £15<br />
|-<br />
| Bob Wood|| £8.28 || No || -- || £10<br />
|-<br />
| Hackspace|| £150 || Yes || -- || £150<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13151Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:35:09Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Painting (September-October 2016):<br />
[[File:PaintersAtWork.jpg|thumb|512px|none|Painters at work]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4, Infrastructure Storage (completed December 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed heights=180px><br />
File:Superstructure.jpg<br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13150Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:34:45Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Painting (September-October 2016):<br />
[[File:PaintersAtWork.jpg|thumb|512px|none|Painters at work]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4, Infrastructure Storage (completed December 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed heights=200px><br />
File:Superstructure.jpg<br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13149Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:34:01Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Painting (September-October 2016):<br />
[[File:PaintersAtWork.jpg|thumb|512px|none|Painters at work]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4, Infrastructure Storage (Completed December 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed heights=180px><br />
File:Superstructure.jpg<br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13148Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:33:36Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Painting (September-October 2016):<br />
[[File:PaintersAtWork.jpg|thumb|512px|none|Painters at work]]<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4, Infrastructure Storage (Completed December 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed heights=180px><br />
File:Superstructure.jpg<br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13147Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:30:13Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Painting (September-October 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:PaintersAtWork.jpg|Painters at work<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4, Infrastructure Storage (Completed December 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:Superstructure.jpg|Superstructure<br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg|Building Racks<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg|Installing Racks<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg|Racks Done<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13146Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:29:42Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Painting (September-October 2016):<br />
<br />
File:Superstructure.jpg<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:PaintersAtWork.jpg|Painters at work<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4, Infrastructure Storage (Completed December 2016):<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:Superstructure.jpg|Superstructure<br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg|Building Racks<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg|Installing Racks<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg|Racks Done<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:PaintersAtWork.jpg&diff=13145File:PaintersAtWork.jpg2016-12-21T00:29:24Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:Superstructure.jpg&diff=13144File:Superstructure.jpg2016-12-21T00:26:10Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13143Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:16:36Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4 (Infrastructure Storage), December 2016:<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:RacksDone.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13142Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:16:03Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4 (Infrastructure Storage), December 2016:<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:RacksDonejpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Hackspace_2.5&diff=13141Hackspace 2.52016-12-21T00:15:42Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following the nearly unanamous vote at the AGM on 2015-12-03, Hackspace 2.5 is going to happen!<br />
<br />
We will rent additional units on the ground floor of Roden House, beneith our current location. Below are 4 images - outline plans of our current space and the new units, and a potential way we could use this space - this is purely for illustrative purposes and is likely to change a lot!<br />
<br />
The space will allow us to increase the size of most of our most used spaces, and will give us room for bigger, better, tools. We will be able to put stairs and disabled access throughout the space, and move our “front door” to ground, step free, level. A space downstairs could become a bigger “blue room”/classroom, which we could make into a bookable resource. The large space downstairs has some concrete flooring, which could change what tools we can use. In short, there are huge opportunities!<br />
<br />
It doesn’t tick all the boxes - there is no outside space and it doesn’t fix our parking issues, but it would be a massive improvement on what we have now.<br />
<br />
== What is the money for ==<br />
This is an incomplete list of capital expenditure items with ESTIMATES of the cost for each:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Item<br />
! Estimated cost<br />
|-<br />
| Deposit || £4850<br />
|-<br />
| Lighting || £2400<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (normal) || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Electrics (3 phase) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal staircase || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Roller shutter || £1200<br />
|-<br />
| Double front doors || £1500<br />
|-<br />
| Access ramp || £1000<br />
|-<br />
| Windows (may be able to get bizspace to cover) || ?<br />
|-<br />
| Window bars || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (metal area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Toilet rework (cnc area) || £500<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (storage to laser) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (laser to cnc) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Internal double doors (metal to members storage) || £100<br />
|-<br />
| Wifi AP's || £112.04<br />
|-<br />
| Network switches || £50<br />
|-<br />
| Network cat5 (cable, sockets, backbox) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Infrastructure automations bits (RFID etc) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Desks 8 of (blue room and others) || £600<br />
|-<br />
| Blue room chairs || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Members box shelving (wood build) || £200<br />
|-<br />
| Storage shelving (metal brought) || £624<br />
|-<br />
| Paint || £50<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== List of pledges ===<br />
Moved [[Project:Hackspace_2.5/Fundraising#Pledge_Drive|here]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace-2.0-plan.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 Plan.png|thumb|512px|none|New space]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Upstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|Current space, zoned]]<br />
[[File:Hackspace2.5 - Downstairs zoned.png|thumb|512px|none|New space, zoned]]<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
Photos of the space prior to the cleaning day on 12/12/2015:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661618136359}}<br />
<br />
Photos during/after the cleaning day:<br />
{{#widget:Flickr|photoset=72157661740142040}}<br />
<br />
Photos from building racking units in G4 (Infrastructure Storage), December 2016:<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:RacksBuild.jpg<br />
File:.RacksInstall.jpg<br />
File:.RacksDonejpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Full Sub Page List ==<br />
<br />
{{Special:PrefixIndex/{{FULLPAGENAME}}/ |stripprefix=1}}<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:RacksDone.jpg&diff=13140File:RacksDone.jpg2016-12-21T00:15:13Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:RacksInstall.jpg&diff=13139File:RacksInstall.jpg2016-12-21T00:14:39Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=File:RacksBuild.jpg&diff=13138File:RacksBuild.jpg2016-12-21T00:14:13Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13116Mug Presses2016-12-14T01:34:09Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection & Calibration===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Calibration tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the calibration client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the Blue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing the button goes like Set --> Set T --> Set time<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=ToDo&diff=13115ToDo2016-12-14T01:32:24Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Would you like to do something for the hackspace? There are usually some small jobs that need doing. You can help out by doing a job off the list below, remember the space is what its members make it. Feel free to add anything you want to this list!<br />
<br />
{{note}} <font color="red">For major jobs with due dates see our</font> [[Action list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Perpetual tasks / Nice things to do for the Hackspace ==<br />
* Tidy a workbench<br />
* Put some tools away<br />
* Charge some drill batteries<br />
* Run or empty the dishwasher<br />
* Sweep something up<br />
* Sort or take some rubbish out (see [[Waste and Recycling Initiative]])<br />
* Clean a loo (see [[Cleaning the hackspace]])<br />
<br />
== Physical/practical tasks ==<br />
=== Signage and information ===<br />
* Membership propaganda to pin board by window - --[[User:Dominic|Dominic]] 22:55, 20 May 2011 (BST) To complete by 28/05/2011 - Is this done now? 07:50, 20 April 2012 (EST)<br />
* Members only on components<br />
* Resistor chart above components<br />
* Put up some "keep the hackspace tidy" signs<br />
<br />
=== Non-room specific ===<br />
* Rewire lights, studio and office first<br />
<br />
=== Entryway ===<br />
* Airlock decorations, status panel<br />
<br />
=== Blue office ===<br />
* Pledge pot for reprap<br />
* Allow upload to flickr group from office pc<br />
<br />
=== Studio ===<br />
* Tetris clock mounted on studio pillar<br />
* Nottingham local map to east window bay in studio, walking routes to stations, ATM, pubs, food, tesco, parking<br />
* '''Mobile phone charging station'''<br />
** iPhone charging: Hack USB hub PCB to apply 2.4 and 2.8 reference voltages to signal pins. iPhones won't charge without this. (Is this done yet -- [[User:Marcus|Marcus]] 07:50, 20 April 2012 (EST))<br />
<br />
=== Workshop ===<br />
* Lots more power sockets in workshop!<br />
<br />
=== Textiles Room ===<br />
Nothing.<br />
<br />
=== Kitchen ===<br />
Nothing.<br />
<br />
=== Toilets ===<br />
* In the bathroom by the donations pot: "Donations to help us keep the hackspace clean". "This hackspace is cleaned by volunteers", "Help us pay for cleaning products", etc.<br />
* Possibly remove the paper from some walls in gent's loo (not easy to clean/unhygienic)<br />
<br />
=== Members Storage Rooms ===<br />
Nothing.<br />
<br />
=== Bigger tasks ===<br />
This section is to break down big jobs into more easily digested chunks if you want to.<br />
* Wooden, wall mounted donation boxes.<br />
<br />
== Website and wiki maintenance ==<br />
* Make google events calendar more used/widely known<br />
* <s>Automate Facebook</s> - No Thanks --[[User:Dominic|Dominic]] 23:28, 20 May 2011 (BST)<br />
<br />
* Members sign up system, quick "I want to join" auto email. Followed by James system<br />
* Combine Nottinghack flickr stream and group?<br />
* We are creating a [[:Category:Featured|featured pages]] category on the wiki, so our best and most important stuff is readable without wading through scruffier notes. This also helps highlight some big gaps that need documenting before we forget about stuff.<br />
* Improve photo of the hackspace entrance on front page (ideally take a photo of the front door on sunny day with welcoming/inviting people/gestures).<br />
* Tag scruffy/incomplete pages with the "tidy up"/"stub" templates.<br />
* Tidy up pages that are categorised as "tidy up"/"stub" pages.<br />
* First in-last out/ building rules<br />
* New wiki Theme & layout? -- Probably best to keep the standard mediawiki theme, it's clean and works well + a custom theme could be a maintenance burden. -- [[User:Marcus|Marcus]] 07:50, 20 April 2012 (EST)<br />
* Templates for:-<br />
** Pledges<br />
** Event planning and feedback<br />
** Projects<br />
** User pages<br />
* The [[:Category:Activities]] needs to be done properly or deleted.<br />
* Current events Page, Google calender, links to Blog/Events:<br />
* The [[{{{ns|project}}}:Community_portal|community portal]] is intended to help people start contributing to the wiki. Describe best ways contribute here.<br />
* Key holders list<br />
* Updating [[the bookshelf]] page. Have photographed all ISBN numbers [http://www.flickr.com/photos/nottinghack/sets/72157629773962895], now need typing in. ... Just discovered we have a barcode scanner, bollocks -- [[User:Marcus|Marcus]] 07:50, 20 April 2012 (EST)<br />
<br />
== Other/unsorted jobs ==<br />
* Find somewhere to mount road side phones, either end of the space? Talk to just each other? Or turn into VoIP handsets? How to dial?<br />
* Auto door closer to members only areas?<br />
* Spare bulbs?<br />
* Floor in workshop, sand? Paint?<br />
* Network points in the workshop?<br />
<br />
[[Category:Activities]]<br />
[[Category:Pages_for_Update]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13109Mug Presses2016-12-12T15:47:19Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection & Calibration===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Calibration tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the calibration client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may also be minor issues with the electronics in the BLue Mug Press, which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing the button goes like Set --> Set T --> Set time<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13108Mug Presses2016-12-12T15:46:09Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection & Calibration===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Calibration tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the calibration client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Use the '''Black Mug Press'''. (The heating element currently installed in the Blue Mug Press is for smaller (8oz) mugs, and there may be issues with the electronics which we'll check ASAP)<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing the button goes like Set --> Set T --> Set time<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Electronics_Test_Kit_Pledge&diff=13094Electronics Test Kit Pledge2016-12-08T00:30:52Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Some very nice Rigol Electronics Test Kit has come available to buy but there is a rather short time frame to raise the money. <br />
<br />
This pledge needs to reach it goal by the '''16th September 2016'''<br />
<br />
Rigol DS4024 200MHz 4-Channel Digital Oscilloscope https://www.rigol-uk.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DS4024&CartID=6<br />
* with 350MHz bandwidth upgrade and signal decoding upgrade (RS232, I2C/SPI, CAN/LIN & FlexRay)<br />
* was £1,800 + vat New and had the upgrades worth £1000 with it (currently £2,099 +vat)<br />
* only 6 months old<br />
<br />
Rigol DM3068 6½ Digit Digital Multimeter https://www.rigol-uk.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DM3068&CartID=15<br />
* was ~£600 new<br />
<br />
Rigol DP832 Linear DC Power Supply (30V/3A & 30V/3A & 5V/3A) https://www.rigol-uk.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DP832&CartID=1<br />
* was ~£350 new<br />
<br />
Total cost new ~£3050+vat today (more if the free scope upgrade offer expires)<br/><br />
We would like to get this kit all in one lot so there is a single pledge total<br/><br />
<br />
Pledge goal of £1064+vat = '''£1276.80'''<br />
<br />
== List of pledges ==<br />
<br />
Please only post on the Google Group mailing list if you really, truly have forgotten your HMS password and need to have someone else to update this.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Who<br />
! How Much<br />
! Paid?<br />
! Method Paid<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Lwk|&#39;RepRap&#39; Matt]] || £200 || Yes|| Xfer 6/10/16<br />
|-<br />
| Ben White || £25 || Yes || BACS<br />
|-<br />
| Derek Stonall|| £20 || Yes || Xfer 7/10/16<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:jjb| James Berry]] || £50 || Yes || Cash<br />
|-<br />
| John C || £200 || Yes || Xfer<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Daniel|Daniel]] || £100 || Yes || Xfer 16/10/16<br />
|-<br />
| James F || £20 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Dclarke|Dclarke]] || £25 || Yes || 14/10/16 PLEDGERG-xx<br />
|-<br />
| Andrew Walters || £30 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:moop|Steve Barnett]] || £75 || Yes || Xfer 10/10/16<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Tasos|Tasos]] || £40 || Yes || Xfer 08/12/16 PLEDGEETKAA<br />
|-<br />
| Paul Meynell|| £50 || No || -- <br />
|-<br />
| Paul (Miller) || £65|| Yes || Xfer 10/10/16<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:iandickinson|Ian D]] || £100 || Yes || Xfer 14/10/16<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker|pledgeGoal=1276}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13093User:Tasos2016-12-08T00:20:41Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also like using these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too. <br />
<br />
I am a proud member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] teams. I am also one of the inductors for [[3D Printer|our 3D printer]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a multi-material 3D printer, single material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mig_Welder_Pledge&diff=13085Mig Welder Pledge2016-12-07T11:22:25Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a pledge to bid in a currently running online auction for a used mig welder for the space. The welder is an ESAB Mig 510 with a Feed 304 (I believe from the photos - the model isn't listed in the text). The auction ends on the 13th at 6pm.<br />
<br />
[http://mam.esab.com/assets/1/430C284BB944436A9D2A3A32A40AD331/doc/613A470C97174EB987D919C1B7BC8125/430481-en_WW-FactSheet_Main-01.pdf ESAB Mig 410/510 Brochure ]<br />
<br />
[http://mam.esab.com/assets/1/430C284BB944436A9D2A3A32A40AD331/doc/253145E04770442C8230F24850316232/430480-en_WW-FactSheet_Main-01.pdf ESAB Feed 304/484 Brochure ]<br />
<br />
This is a very capable machine from a well respected manufacturer. It uses a standard euro torch, and feed rollers are available for wire sizes from 0.6 to 1.6mm, and also for aluminium and flux-core.<br />
<br />
== List of pledges ==<br />
<br />
Please only post on the Google Group mailing list if you really, truly have forgotten your HMS password and need to have someone else to update this.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Who<br />
! How Much<br />
! Paid?<br />
! Method Paid<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:jjb|James B]] || £50 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Lwk|&#39;RepRap&#39; Matt]] || £40 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:chriscain|Chris Cain]] || £50 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| Mouse || £15 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| Andrew Walters || £25 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| Kirsty L || £10 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Skipferret|Phil Parry]] || £10 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Tasos|Tasos]] || £35 || No || --<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{{#widget:PledgeTracker}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Pledge Drives]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Members_list&diff=13083Members list2016-12-07T09:00:29Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>Info for New Members can be found [[New Members|here]]<br />
<br />
Some of our members have chosen to list themselves below:<br />
__NOINDEX__<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Name<br />
! Instructables Username<br />
! Twitter Username<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.omgrofl.com Adam Hillson] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/SlackR84 SlackR84] || [http://twitter.com/SlackR84 SlackR84]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:AndrewThorpe|Andrew Thorpe]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/pyroka pyroka] || [http://twitter.com/pyroka pyroka]<br />
|- | [[User:AndyN|Andy Nevill]] || - || -<br />
| [[User:BenjaminCrowe|Benjamin Crowe]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/BnE BnE] || [https://twitter.com/BnE_C BnE_C]<br />
|- <br />
| [[User:chriscain|Chris Cain]] || - || - <br />
|-<br />
| [[User:spyclub|Daniel Martin]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/spyclub spyclub] || [http://twitter.com/spyclub spyclub]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Daniel|Daniel Swann]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/-drs- -drs-] || [http://twitter.com/ds1111_ ds1111_]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Davidhayward|David Hayward]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/nachimir nachimir] || [http://twitter.com/nachimir nachimir]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Dominic|Dominic Morrow]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/ChickenGrylls ChickenGrylls] || [http://twitter.com/ChickenGrylls ChickenGrylls]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Tharrick|Gareth W]] || || [http://twitter.com/TharrickLawson TharrickLawson]<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.gmjhowe.com Jake Howe] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/gmjhowe gmjhowe] || [http://twitter.com/gmjhowe gmjhowe]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:iandickinson|Ian Dickinson]] || - || [http://twitter.com/iandickinson iandickinson]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:ideacrystals|Ian Evans]] || - || [http://twitter.com/ideacrystals ideacrystals]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:jfowkes|James Fowkes]] || ? || [http://twitter.com/fowkc fowkc]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:James|James Hayward]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/purplegecko purplegecko] || [http://twitter.com/geeksareforlife geeksareforlife]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:2ManyHobbies|Jared Allen]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/Jaz_Allen Jaz_Allen] || [http://twitter.com/Jaz_Allen Jaz_Allen]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Rahlon|Jason Baxter]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/rahlon Rahlon] || [http://twitter.com/rahlon Rahlon]<br />
|-<br />
| [http://john.crouchley.com John Crouchley] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/jcrouchley jcrouchley] || [http://twitter.com/jcrouchley jcrouchley]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:justinjnf|Justin Stokes]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/jnfsystems jnfsystems] || [http://twitter.com/justin_jnf @justin_jnf]<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.katebolin.com Kate Bolin] || # || [http://twitter.com/Katemonkey Katemonkey]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Rave|Kai Pays]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/Ravepants Ravepants] || [http://twitter.com/Ravepants Ravepants]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Marcus|Marcus]] || No thanks || [https://twitter.com/kmqz kmqz]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:chunky|Matt Little]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/chunkyhampton chunkyhampton] || [http://twitter.com/ChunkyHampton ChunkyHampton]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:lwk|Matt Lloyd]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/lwk lwk] || [http://twitter.com/dpslwk dpslwk]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:msemtd|Michael Erskine]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/msemtd msemtd] || [http://twitter.com/msemtd msemtd]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:MichaelP|Michael Procter]] || ? || [http://twitter.com/_mhp_ _mhp_]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Mellchie|Michelle Strickland]] || Nope || [https://twitter.com/mellchie mellchie]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Dex|Rob Haywood]] || N/A || [http://twitter.com/robbyteback @robbyteback]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Rossaluss|Ross Fowkes]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/Rossaluss Rossaluss] || [http://twitter.com/rossaluss @rossaluss]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Russell|Russell Jenkins]] || No thanks || [http://twitter.com/jenkinsfearn @jenkinsfearn]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Tasos|Tasos Avgoustidis]] || - || -<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Tony_S|Tony Shannon]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/sleepyuk sleepyuk] || [http://twitter.com/ShannonTony ShannonTony]<br />
|-<br />
| [[User:TomG|Tom Gwynne]] || [http://www.instructables.com/member/NondoX NondoX] || [http://twitter.com/NondoX NondoX]<br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[User:Dclarke|David Clarke]] || - || -<br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[User:Moop|Steve Barnett]] || - || - <br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[User:AndyC|Andy Collins]] || - || - <br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[User:Sebzeppelin|Seb Price]] || - || - <br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[User:WPyro|Eriw Preston]] || - || [http://twitter.com/WanderingPyro WanderingPyro] <br />
|-<br />
<br />
| [[User:awambawamb|Massimiliano Cavallin]] || - || [http://twitter.com/awambawamb awambawamb] <br />
|-<br />
<br />
<br />
| [[User:Matt_P|Matt Pritchard]] || - || - <br />
|-<br />
| [[User:Mathw|Matthew Walton]] || - || [http://twitter.com/maw maw] <br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Membership]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13079User:Tasos2016-12-07T01:57:11Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too. <br />
<br />
I am a proud member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] teams. I am also one of the inductors for [[3D Printer|our 3D printer]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a multi-material 3D printer, single material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13078User:Tasos2016-12-07T01:55:04Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too. <br />
<br />
I am a proud member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] teams. I am also one of the inductors for our 3D printer.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a multi-material 3D printer, single material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13077User:Tasos2016-12-07T01:54:38Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too. I am also one of the inductors for our 3D printer.<br />
<br />
I am a proud member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] teams. <br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a multi-material 3D printer, single material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13076User:Tasos2016-12-07T01:51:53Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too.<br />
<br />
I am a proud member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] teams. <br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a multi-material 3D printer, single material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13075User:Tasos2016-12-07T01:45:38Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too.<br />
<br />
I am a proud member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] teams. <br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a single material 3D printer, multi-material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13028User:Tasos2016-11-28T00:45:54Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too.<br />
<br />
<!-- I am a member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing team]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] team. --><br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a single material 3D printer, multi-material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=Mug_Presses&diff=13027Mug Presses2016-11-28T00:40:58Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
Becky & Tom from Etsy shop SkylineUK have kindly donated their mug printing kit to the hackspace. <br />
The kit includes: <br />
* Two mug heat press machines ([http://www.ukcutter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=143 UKPress Blue Wave MP160] and [https://www.monstershop.co.uk/pixmax-sublimation-mug-press-machine?gclid=CJywy-yTj9ACFcm6GwodNC4Ctw PixMax]) <br />
* [https://www.epson.co.uk/products/printers/inkjet-printers/consumer/expression-home-xp-215 EPSON XP-215] printer with Continuous Ink Supply System (CISS) for sublimation ink <br />
* spare (sublimation) mugs<br />
* sublimation paper <br />
* sublimation ink<br />
<br />
This page is currently simply a summary of info from the demo/workshop Tom gave us on the use of the kit. It is intended as a first reference guide to using the printer and presses in order to make beautiful custom mugs. <br />
<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=180px><br />
File:1stMugSide1.jpg|1st Mug Hackspace Side<br />
File:1stMugSide2.jpg|1st Mug Rabbit Side<br />
File:TomDemo.jpg|Mug Printing Demo Workshop<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Note: The instructions below have not been tested. Please try to follow them and make amendments and updates to this wiki page.''' <br />
<br />
<br />
==Brief description==<br />
The procedure is simple and quick, it only takes a few mins to make your mug. You have a design you want to print on a mug (it could be a photo, an inkscape design, a figure from your word document, etc). You print it in colour on sublimation paper using the EPSON XP-215 printer, making sure the size will fit on the mug. You turn the heater on the press machine. By the time it heats up (a min or so) your print should have dried and be ready to use. Wrap the printed side around the mug, fix it with Kapton tape, put the mug in the machine and press the red button. Remove the mug when you hear the beep. Your mug is ready. <br />
(Obviously this only works well with special sublimation mugs like [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ these ones].) <br />
<br />
<br />
==Detailed Instructions==<br />
<br />
===Printer Connection & Calibration===<br />
*You can connect to the EPSON XP-215 printer either by usb or wireless. <br />
* '''You should not need to calibrate the printer unless it has been recently moved''' (which would have changed the position of the printheads and the ink in the system). Calibration tool for printer is included in drivers for EPSON XP-215. Run the calibration client, which will involve printing calibration pages and informing the client of the best printed bits in these printed pages. In each iteration you will have to enter the best printed number from each numbered section. If after finishing the calibration you see wide strips of pale colour running down the printed calibration page, then there is likely too much ink in the system (because of a recent relocation of the printer). If so, try print a large mount of colour (e.g. large squares of different colours in a page). This should fix it. <br />
<br />
===Print Preparation & Printer Settings===<br />
* In Inkscape (or anywhere else) make a '''box of size 205mm x 85mm''' or smaller. This is the maximum size that will fit on a mug. <br />
* Appropriately scale and position your design/photo/figure in the box. Then delete the box. <br />
* Flip everything (otherwise your image will be printed mirrored)<br />
* Best printer settings tend to be about the worst quality photo option (better that that may cause slight bleeding). In particular, choose Image quality 360dpi, then choose printer EPSON XP215. Under Advanced, choose automatic --> quality, and print quality --> photo<br />
* Make sure the '''sublimation paper has no marks, it is clean and free of fluff''' (which apparently prints really well!)<br />
* '''Print on the smoother of the two sides''' of the sublimation paper<br />
<br />
===Mug Press===<br />
* Turn on the mug press. It should be already set to T=180C and the press time to 160sec<br />
* It should take less that a min to heat up, which is enough time for your printed design to dry. <br />
* If Temperature and Time settings are different you can reset them. Repeatedly pressing the button goes like Set --> Set T --> Set time<br />
* Cut the printed page around your design. You can cut a rectangle of maximum size 205mm x 85mm (otherwise the paper will extend beyond the edges of the mug and will burn). <br />
* Wrap your cut print around a sublimation mug. Stick with kapton tape along the edges. Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the edges of paper''' (it will print!). Make sure there is '''no paper over the edge of the mug''' (it will burn and make your mug edges yellow). Make sure there is '''no dust/fluff on the kapton tape''' itself (it will print along the edges of the image!). <br />
* Fit the mug in the machine and press red button, beeper will sound once time is up (normally set to 160 sec). <br />
* Press red button again before turning off. (This will reset timer for when it is switched on next time.) <br />
* Remove your mug (with a heat resistant glove) and let it cool down. Enjoy your tea. <br />
<br />
==Other Relevant Comments==<br />
* The settings mentioned above (printer settings, heat press temperature and time settings) are suggestions, selected after trial and error. You can of course try your own settings/fine tunings.<br />
* The above works with special sublimation mugs (cost less than a pound each). There is also sublimation coating you can apply to ordinary mugs but this has been tried and results have not been as successful. <br />
** 11oz mugs are available from [http://m.monsterdoodles.co.uk/white_sublimation_mugs_36.html?source=googlebase&gclid=CMGb4aavj9ACFVW7GwodFuQJoQ here] (cost around £35 for box of 36 mugs)<br />
** If you are making a present you can buy mug boxes from [http://www.rajapack.co.uk/cardboard-boxes/postal-boxes/easifold-fast-assembly-postal-mug-boxes-brown-110x100x94mm-pack-of-25_MUGBOXB.html?prixTTC=true&gclid=CKjv8Zuuj9ACFcLGGwodHkkEtg&gclsrc=aw.ds here] (cost around 50p each)<br />
* Sublimation paper can be purchased from [http://www.xpres.co.uk/c-617-sublimation-paper-sheets.aspx here]<br />
* Curious thing: why is it that dust/fluff print so well on sublimation mugs? <br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools and Equipment]]</div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13025User:Tasos2016-11-25T14:23:47Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too.<br />
<br />
<!-- I am a member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing team]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] team. --><br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a single material 3D printer, multi-material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D-printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasoshttps://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/index.php?title=User:Tasos&diff=13024User:Tasos2016-11-25T14:23:20Z<p>Tasos: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Tasos.jpg|right|140px|frameless|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
I am a theoretical physicist working on Cosmology. But I am not ashamed! <br />
<br />
A few years ago I discovered I can do some practical things too. Like soldering. Or building robots. Printerbots. 3D printing stuff.<br />
<br />
Then I joined the hackspace. What a wonderful place and what a great and varied community we have here in Notts. <br />
<br />
Much of my spare time I enjoy building RepRaps and other related machines, like little plotters or filament extruders. I also use these machines, mostly to 3D print beautiful things or to make experimental 3D printing filament. Sometimes I play with resins too.<br />
<br />
<!-- I am a member of the [[Team:3D Printing|3D printing team]] and the [[Project:Hackspace_2.5|Hackspace2.5]] team. --><br />
<br />
==Projects To Do (looking for hackers to work with)==<br />
<br />
* '''3D resin printer (probably DLP) for Hackspace 2.5:''' See [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/nottinghack/P4nndRYxNYQ relevant google group post] and [https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/7QN77XK this survey]. Seems people are most interested in hacking a LiitleRP-type machine (also see completed projects below) to increase the build area.<br />
<br />
* '''Compounder:''' To properly experiment with making 3D printing filament with various powders (metals, stone, etc) you need a 2-stage procedure: first use a compounder to mix materials and make pellets, then use extruder to make filament. I've played enough with the second stage (see completed projects below) and have produced great PLA filaments, but only decent powdery PLA filaments. For the latter we need a twin-screw compounder. Please contact me if you want to play with this project.<br />
<br />
==Projects Completed==<br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''My first RepRap, a Prusa Mendel i2 named Soliton (built Nov 2013)'''<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=300px><br />
File:Soliton_v0.jpg|Soliton, November 2013<br />
File:Soliton_Feb2015.jpg|Soliton, February 2015 <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A 3D printing filament extruder (built May 2015)''' [It is a Filastruder, designed by Tim Elmore] <br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Linastruder.jpg<br />
File:Linastruder_blue.jpg<br />
File:BlueClipper.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A mutant Prusa Mendel i2 (named Instanton, built August 2015) that works as a single material 3D printer, multi-material 3D printer, plotter''' (and laser cutter to be)<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:DualCut.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_plotter.jpg<br />
File:Instanton.jpg<br />
File:Heads.jpg<br />
File:Instanton_dual.jpg<br />
File:Richtruder.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
* '''A DLP 3D-printer (built August 2016)''' [It is a LittleRP, designed by Brad Hill]<br />
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=220px><br />
File:Mikrh_RoPh.jpg<br />
File:EiffelPrinting.jpg<br />
File:2ndPrints.jpg<br />
</gallery></div>Tasos