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| | [[File:IMAG0033.jpg]] | | [[File:IMAG0033.jpg]] |
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| − | ====Brakes and Headset:====
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| − | [[File:IMAG0022.jpg]]
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| − | * 1. Headset cup remover. For sliding up into your head tube, then using a rubber mallet to knock bearing cups out of the frame.
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| − | * 2. Home made tool for bashing crown races flat onto new forks (PVC pipe).
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| − | * 3. Home made headset cup press, for putting cups back into your frame.
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| − | * 4. Star nut installation tool.
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| − | * 5. Brake cable housing cutters. These have parrot beak shaped jaws, so you can chop brake and gear cable housings without squashing them; important for keeping the cables running smoothly. Please look after these, they're not a cheap tool. Also have a deburring awl under the rubber cap for opening out the housing ends.
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| − | * 6. Cables ends, and headset spacers (for 1 1/8 headsets).
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| − | ====Wheels:====
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| − | [[File:IMAG0024.jpg]]
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| − | * 1. Cone spanners, for adjusting hubs.
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| − | * 2. Tyre levers. Metal and ABS.
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| − | * 3. Box of brass spoke nipples. <span style="color:#FFFFFF">Heh. Nipples.</span>
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| − | * 4. Valve caps
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| − | * 5. Spoke keys. Yellow = 3.4 mm Japanese spokes, Red = 3.25 mm American spokes. The other two are very old and I'm not sure about them.
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| − | * 6. Pump. This is additional to the two track pumps that belong to the hackspace.
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| − | Spoke nipples, cable ends, and valve caps are consumables, feel free to use them if you need them.
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| − | ====Chainset:====
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| − | [[File:IMAG0020.jpg]]
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| − | * 1. Crank extractor for splined cranks. Octalink, ISIS, etc.
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| − | * 2. Chain link breaker. Used for shortening new chains to the correct length for your chainset, also removing chains that don't have a quick/missing link.
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| − | * 3. Chain wear indicator. Place rounded section against roller. If the tooth at the opposite end slips into the chain easily, it indicates the level of wear corresponding to the side you use, 0.75% or 1% wear. Depending on your chain manufacturer, both can indicate the need for chain replacement. [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q40ygZ4E65g Video of one in use]].
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| − | * 4. Crank extractor for square taper cranks.
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| − | * 5. 24mm socket, for use with cassette lock ring tool.
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| − | * 6. Cassette lockring tool. For removing and replacing the sprockets on the back wheel of your bike.
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| − | * 7. Bottom bracket tool. Fits Shimano sealed cartridge bottom brackets. It takes a 1/2 inch drive, and the torque wrenches are 1/4, but there's an adapter in the red box with the Sealey torque wrench (see below).
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| − | * 8. Chain whip. For removing cassettes.
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| − | Additionally, these master link pliers have been added to the toolkit:
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| − | [[File:Master-link-pliers.jpg]]
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| − | Because the handles are already blue, they have white tape on them.
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| − | ====General Tools:====
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| − | [[File:IMAG0019.jpg]]
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| − | * 1. Ball end allen keys. Please keep these in the bike toolkit and not with the other hackspace tools.
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| − | * 2. Small allen keys. Useful for the odd bolt on something, e.g. locking grips.
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| − | * 3. Scissors. Rubbish ones, sometimes useful to have around, ok for chopping zip ties, etc.
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| − | * 4. Adjustable spanners. If theres a correctly sized spanner in the box for sockets and spanners, you'd be much better off using that than these, as adjustable spanners can damage nuts more easily. Nonetheless, they're useful for truing brake rotors and much, much cheaper than rotor truing forks.
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| − | * 5. Thread locking compound. Very useful for making sure things stay tightened up.
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| − | ====Torque Wrenches and Sockets:====
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| − | Torque wrenches live in the bottom of the toolbox along with a printed torque reference, and the magnetic parts tray plus sockets and allen+star bits live in a blue case nearby.
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| − | WARNING: Do not drop torque wrenches. They'll need calibrating afterward, and that costs about £30 a wrench.
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| − | [[File:IMAG0030.jpg]][[File:IMAG0026.jpg]]
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| − | List of them:
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| − | [[File:IMAG0021.jpg]]
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| − | * 1. 10 - 70 N.m. Torque wrench. Good for things like pedals and bottom brackets.
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| − | * 2. Fork plug. Usually used for posting forks, but useful for putting on them when you're working on the bike without a front wheel, changing forks, etc.
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| − | * 3. Anti-seize. Copper grease.
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| − | * 4. Sealey 4 - 24 N.m. Torque wrench. Good for most bolts.
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| − | * 5. Drive adapters. These live in the bottom of the red box with the Sealey torque wrench, and allow 1/4" to interface with sockets that take different size drives. Again, please keep in the red box with the torque wrench when you're not using them.
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| − | Here are the torque markings on the wrenches:
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| − | [[File:IMAG0027.jpg]]
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| − | Again, any questions about bike maintenance, ask [[User:Davidhayward|Davidhayward]].
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| | [[Category:Tools and Equipment]] | | [[Category:Tools and Equipment]] |
| | [[Category:Featured]] | | [[Category:Featured]] |
The hackspace currently has a set of bicycle tools on loan from --Davidhayward, plus some other relevant tools that belong to the space. They're located in the members room, and secured with a combination lock. Ask David for the combination if you'd like to use them.
If you are interested in how storing bikes works at the Hackspace, please see our Bike Storage page.
Here are photos of all of the tools and explanations of what they are.
If in doubt of any aspects of bike maintenance, David can help.
Bike Tools Owned by the Hackspace:
Sockets and Spanners:
Note that the drawers won't open until you've lifted the lid.
Track pumps:
The tripod-legged track pump needs repair.
Workstand:
It's a bit wobbly, so make sure the quick releases are tight. It's not secure enough to work on pedals or bottom brackets, but it's great for using to set up your brakes and gears. Best to secure your bike by the seatpost, but if your cables aren't routed along the top tube you could turn the clamp and secure it there too.
