Difference between revisions of "Planer Thicknesser"

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(Major Re-Vamp to provide information on newly loaned tool.)
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Major tool for the wish list. Some notes to start the discussion.
+
The Space has an ELU EPT 1161 Planer Thicknesser, on long term loan from [[user:Jelly]].
  
Advantage to have a substantial cast-iron one, floor-standing, as this will be far more rigid and reliable than a portabe, bench-top one.
+
== Inductions ==
 +
The Planer-Thicknesser is an induction tool, and an Induction can be requested via [https://docs.google.com/forms/d/11Cn8Y4vmnWjj7TVxJYkPtvR0fjt5seOK-RPwSN4DbQA/viewform?edit_requested=true this form]
  
One (used) fitting this specification is available (Russell), needs space available and allocation for this purpose.
+
The induction process can be as short as 10-15 minutes for an experienced user or as long as you feel necessary to be comfortable using the machine if you're just starting out.
  
A movable one could be considered - e.g. http://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/10-x-6-planer-thicknesser - "The PT260 Planer Thicknesser has been slashed in price to an incredible £599.99 and still includes the pedal wheel kit! Also, the PT260 and CX2000 are available as a package deal for only £699.99, giving an even greater saving over these already keenly priced machines."
+
Currently access to the machine is limited by a physical lockout and combination padlock, which will in the fullness of time be replaced with an RFID system.
  
Advantages of a planer-thicknesser over a basic bench-top thicknesser - see Record Power leaflet Spring/Summer 2014 and Youtube (???)
 
  
N.B. SPACE is the major disincentive at May 2014, both for the tool itself, the space around it (the whole point is to mahine down rough-sawn timber into usable material, and for the storage of raw materials. Definitely one for Hackspace 3.0?
+
== What It Does ==
 +
The Planer-Thicknesser, carries out it's eponymous operations of Planing and Thicknessing '''Solid Wood'''.
 +
 
 +
This allows a rough hunk of timber, to become a pristine board for joinery & cabinetry, picture framing, luthiery  or just looking at, I guess.
 +
 
 +
The machine also enjoys an occasional coat of beeswax being rubbed on it's tables, you should do this in much the same way as you'd rub the belly of a friendly cat:- ''that is remembering it still has sharp bits, even if they're not in active use''.
 +
 
 +
=== Planing ===
 +
Taking a rough and/or not flat surface, and producing a smooth, flat one.
 +
 
 +
This is the first operation, in making your board.
 +
 
 +
==== Facing ====
 +
Initially, one of the wider surfaces is planed flat, if you have a piece of timber which is bowed (bent along its length) or cupped (bent across it's width) the face which will have points of contact at both ends/sides should be used for this first face.
 +
 
 +
The Timber should be run across the cutters using the outfeed table as a reference surface, by repeatedly taking gentle passes in this way until no roughness, cupping or bowing remains, a face can be established on the timber.
 +
 
 +
==== Edge ====
 +
to get a straight, perpendicular edge (or other angled edge, as the fence can accommodate anything from 45°-90°) the timber is then run across the cutters with the initial face referenced against the fence, and allowed to sit on the tables and cutter block under it's own weight, applying minimal downward pressure.
 +
 
 +
=== Thicknessing ===
 +
This is the second, less involved function, and will use the face and edge defined by planing to produce an accurately-sized board with perfect parallelism.
 +
 
 +
The face and edge defined earlier are placed on the bottom, thicknessing table and allowed to engage with the power feed rollers, which pass the board under the cutter block, to create a second, parallel face and edge.
 +
 
 +
When attempting to use the thicknessing function to define the second edges of thin boards, give due consideration to how stable they may be resting on a thin face, running several through next to each other for stability may be the wisest course of action, and in some cases it may be neccessary to use the original planed face to edge both sides on the planer, rather than using the thicknessing function.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== What it Does Not ==
 +
* Work with manufactured panel products, not limited to but including:
 +
**Plywood
 +
**MDF
 +
**OSB
 +
**Formica/Melamine
 +
* Work with plastics.
 +
* Like to find metal objects embedded within the wood it's planing.
 +
* Like force being applied to the infeed, outfeed or thicknessing tables.
 +
* Like removing hard surface coatings like paint or varnish.
 +
* Enjoy beverages, hot or cold.
 +
 
 +
It is important to respect the machines dislikes, as it will otherwise become unhappy and intentionally dull or chip its knives whilst no-one is looking, to prevent future hackers from getting a good surface finish on their work when using it.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Issues ==
 +
Currently, due to space there are some issues.
 +
=== Extraction ===
 +
The planer shares an extraction hose with the Kity K8 Dimension Saw, so it's important that the hose is secured back to the saw when the planer is not actively in use, as this is done with a jubilee clip, a small straight screwdriver is required for this purpose, such as those on the wall next to the Chop-Saw.
 +
In general, failing to use the chip extractor will result in more shavings than you can shake a silky-smooth recently planed stick at, and these will be ejected to ''a bunch of different places, just alllll over, you know...'' As such, however much it might seem like hassle to setup the extraction for a tiny job, '''it will be easier than sweeping up.'''
 +
=== Storage ===
 +
Storage space is also limited, at current the machine has made it's home next to the lathe in the dusty area, under the handheld power sanders, this is not ideal, as this is also where the table extention for the Dimension Saw goes when in use. Any person who can successfully identify a better place for it to live will be rewarded with a refreshing beverage, on delivering their suggestion and preference in beverage to [[user:Jelly]].
 +
=== Working Space ===
 +
Again due to the Extending Table of the Dimension Saw, there may be times where there simply is not space available to set up the planer until other hackers have finished. Even when they have, space can be tight and it's important to think about where people will be, where you will be and where your wood will come from and go to, before starting.
 +
 
 +
== The Future ==
 +
The current loaned machine is hopefully a stop-gap or possibly gateway machine, towards the renovation and installation of a more substantial machine, there is one which could be available to the space once restored suitably which would eclipse the current one (both in terms of capabilities and being lined up with a strong light source).
 +
 
 +
With this in mind, any options for siting the machine more permanently during re-arrangement or upgrade of space facilities, are best discussed in terms of the larger machine which will hopefully follow, rather than the current small one.  
  
 
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]
 
[[Category:Tools_and_Equipment]]

Revision as of 21:56, 9 November 2015

The Space has an ELU EPT 1161 Planer Thicknesser, on long term loan from user:Jelly.

Inductions

The Planer-Thicknesser is an induction tool, and an Induction can be requested via this form

The induction process can be as short as 10-15 minutes for an experienced user or as long as you feel necessary to be comfortable using the machine if you're just starting out.

Currently access to the machine is limited by a physical lockout and combination padlock, which will in the fullness of time be replaced with an RFID system.


What It Does

The Planer-Thicknesser, carries out it's eponymous operations of Planing and Thicknessing Solid Wood.

This allows a rough hunk of timber, to become a pristine board for joinery & cabinetry, picture framing, luthiery or just looking at, I guess.

The machine also enjoys an occasional coat of beeswax being rubbed on it's tables, you should do this in much the same way as you'd rub the belly of a friendly cat:- that is remembering it still has sharp bits, even if they're not in active use.

Planing

Taking a rough and/or not flat surface, and producing a smooth, flat one.

This is the first operation, in making your board.

Facing

Initially, one of the wider surfaces is planed flat, if you have a piece of timber which is bowed (bent along its length) or cupped (bent across it's width) the face which will have points of contact at both ends/sides should be used for this first face.

The Timber should be run across the cutters using the outfeed table as a reference surface, by repeatedly taking gentle passes in this way until no roughness, cupping or bowing remains, a face can be established on the timber.

Edge

to get a straight, perpendicular edge (or other angled edge, as the fence can accommodate anything from 45°-90°) the timber is then run across the cutters with the initial face referenced against the fence, and allowed to sit on the tables and cutter block under it's own weight, applying minimal downward pressure.

Thicknessing

This is the second, less involved function, and will use the face and edge defined by planing to produce an accurately-sized board with perfect parallelism.

The face and edge defined earlier are placed on the bottom, thicknessing table and allowed to engage with the power feed rollers, which pass the board under the cutter block, to create a second, parallel face and edge.

When attempting to use the thicknessing function to define the second edges of thin boards, give due consideration to how stable they may be resting on a thin face, running several through next to each other for stability may be the wisest course of action, and in some cases it may be neccessary to use the original planed face to edge both sides on the planer, rather than using the thicknessing function.


What it Does Not

  • Work with manufactured panel products, not limited to but including:
    • Plywood
    • MDF
    • OSB
    • Formica/Melamine
  • Work with plastics.
  • Like to find metal objects embedded within the wood it's planing.
  • Like force being applied to the infeed, outfeed or thicknessing tables.
  • Like removing hard surface coatings like paint or varnish.
  • Enjoy beverages, hot or cold.

It is important to respect the machines dislikes, as it will otherwise become unhappy and intentionally dull or chip its knives whilst no-one is looking, to prevent future hackers from getting a good surface finish on their work when using it.


Issues

Currently, due to space there are some issues.

Extraction

The planer shares an extraction hose with the Kity K8 Dimension Saw, so it's important that the hose is secured back to the saw when the planer is not actively in use, as this is done with a jubilee clip, a small straight screwdriver is required for this purpose, such as those on the wall next to the Chop-Saw. In general, failing to use the chip extractor will result in more shavings than you can shake a silky-smooth recently planed stick at, and these will be ejected to a bunch of different places, just alllll over, you know... As such, however much it might seem like hassle to setup the extraction for a tiny job, it will be easier than sweeping up.

Storage

Storage space is also limited, at current the machine has made it's home next to the lathe in the dusty area, under the handheld power sanders, this is not ideal, as this is also where the table extention for the Dimension Saw goes when in use. Any person who can successfully identify a better place for it to live will be rewarded with a refreshing beverage, on delivering their suggestion and preference in beverage to user:Jelly.

Working Space

Again due to the Extending Table of the Dimension Saw, there may be times where there simply is not space available to set up the planer until other hackers have finished. Even when they have, space can be tight and it's important to think about where people will be, where you will be and where your wood will come from and go to, before starting.

The Future

The current loaned machine is hopefully a stop-gap or possibly gateway machine, towards the renovation and installation of a more substantial machine, there is one which could be available to the space once restored suitably which would eclipse the current one (both in terms of capabilities and being lined up with a strong light source).

With this in mind, any options for siting the machine more permanently during re-arrangement or upgrade of space facilities, are best discussed in terms of the larger machine which will hopefully follow, rather than the current small one.