Bambu Lab P1S: Difference between revisions
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There is a detailed breakdown of steps for getting things up and running on this page: | There is a detailed breakdown of steps for getting things up and running on this page: | ||
[[Howto:_Bambu_P1S]] | '''[[Howto:_Bambu_P1S]]''' | ||
== Printing direct to the printer from the slicer == | == Printing direct to the printer from the slicer == | ||
Revision as of 10:04, 20 July 2025
| Bambu Lab P1S | |
|---|---|
| Manufacturer | Bambu |
| Model | P1S |
| Location | 3D Printer Area |
| Team | 3D Printing |
| Induction Required | No |
| Risk Assessment | Yes, see the assessment |
| Tools: all pages • list • Power Tools • Broken tools {{}} | |
This printer was installed in the Space on 16h July, 2025.
Buying Filament
The P1S takes 1.75mm filament, so choose some PLA or PETG in your favourite colour.
The nozzle in the P1S uses a 0.4 hardened nozzle and can use filaments that contain "fillers" such as Carbon fiber or glow in the dark.
PETG prints well, is tougher than PLA but can create strings if printing too fast - is better that PLA when coming into contact with water and will resist higher ambient temperatures than PLA.
PLA gives good detail and clean prints - is brittle and is not good to use in moist conditions - it will also tend to misform in high ambient temperatures.
You can buy branded Bambu filament off the Bambu store, or just shop about on Amazon or wait until we do a Bulk buy and hop onto that.
WARNING: TPU loves to grip onto build plates - especially the PEI plates (which is the gold one on the printer). It is highly recommended to apply a thin layer of glue stick (pritt et al) to the print plate before printing to prevent the TPU "welding" itself to the plate ruining it.
Slicer choice
We have installed Orca Slicer on the Computer next to the printers (Preferred by many because it has some extra configuration options).
Orca slicer is a fork of Bambu Labs "own" slicer - Bambu Studio.
https://bambulab.com/en/download/studio
If you want to slice your models at home for testing or printing purposes, we suggest that you download and install your slicer choice from the relevant sites. By doing this, you will be able to control more of your own settings and see how long a print will take when you bring the sliced file into Hackspace to print.
From now on we simply refer to "the slicer/slicer" rather than Orca or Studio.
Using the slicer on your own laptop within Hackspace
If you are connected to the LAN in Hackspace and the P1S is powered on, you should be able to see it - "Bambu-P1S" and select it in the slicer under the Device dropdown.
If it doesn't appear, you may need to adjust your firewall settings.
When connecting to the printer, it will ask for a PIN/ACCESS code which can be found on the printer under:-
Settings > WLAN. Take note of the ACCESS CODE.
Please do not press the refresh icon, as everyone else that already has setup their slicer will need to reset their ACCESS code.
Do not register the printer to any Bambu account - please leave this in LAN Only/Developer mode.
Using the slicer outside of Hackspace
You do not have to be in HackSpace to slice your files and use the P1S printer.
Install your chosen slicer and select the P1S as your printer - you will be able to slice your files and save to a Micro SD card (see below)
Slicing the part
Once the printer is configured in your slicer, import your object (the slicer accepts a number of file formats) and orient it to minimise overhangs. Supports can be enabled if necessary.
Ensure that you are slicing for the correct filament you have loaded or will load into the printer.
Click the Preview tab to slice the model.
You can move up and down between the layers to ensure certain areas will provide enough strength you can go back to the prepare tab to adjust your settings and reslice.
P1S screen display
The display on the P1S is (annoyingly) retro.
The detailed explanations of functionality are out of scope for this page but you should inform yourself of the screen options by using the link below.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/manual/screen-operation
Preparing the machine to print
Check your filament is loaded.
Load your filament by going to:
Nozzle icon > Feeding > Load
The printer does not ask for the type of filament and chooses a generic nozzle temperature.
Check that the build plate is correctly positioned.
There is a detailed breakdown of steps for getting things up and running on this page:
Printing direct to the printer from the slicer
You have to be connected to the LAN in Hackspace and be able to "see" the P1S.
In preview tab of the slicer choose "Print plate", this will Send the sliced code to the printer and the print job will begin.
Firewall
In order to allow discovery, you may need to open some ports on your firewall. Newer versions of teh slicer allow you to specify an IP address and access pin by selecting "Bind with Access Code"
If you are running a RedHat-like distribution (e.g. Fedora), you can allow inbound traffic on the discovery port (2021/udp):
sudo firewlal-cmd --new-zone bambu --permanent sudo firewall-cmd --add-source 10.0.0.0/24 --zone bambu --permanent sudo firewall-cmd --add-port 2021/udp --zone bambu --permanent sudo firewall-cmd --reload
On Ubuntu or Debian using ufw, it should be something like: (untested)
sudo ufw allow 2021/udp from 10.0.0.0/24
Printing from a Micro SD card
You will need to have saved your sliced part to a Micro SD card.
In "Preview tab" of the slicer, choose the dropdown from "Print plate" and select "Export plate sliced file"
Click this and you will be prompted to save the file in a name format yourname_m.gcode.3mf.
Put this file on your Micro SD card and head off to Hackspace.
Insert your Micro SD card into the P1S, and navigate to the folders tab your sliced object file name will be shown on the P1S display. REMEMBER TO REINSERT THE ORIGINAL SD CARD AFTER YOUR PRINT HAS FINISHED
Choose the files and hit OK.
Printing operation
The printer will go through its startup routine (which includes auto bed levelling), a little shaking too.
A purge line will be printed on the front of the build plate.
When the print is completed - wait a few minutes for the build plate to cool down and then it should be very easy to remove your printed item.
Please try not to use scrapers or tools that might damage the PEI print plate material
Cleaning up
Unload your filament by going to:\
Nozzle icon > Feeding > Unload
Follow the instructions.
Ensure the build plate is free of your printed item, supports and any filament purge lines (found at the front of the build plate).
If your print does not want to stay put on the build plate during printing
Sometimes first layers dont seem to want to "stick" to the build plate, this is usually due to grease/dirt from fingers previously touching the build plate. To try and remedy this - using a little washing up liquid and water (not Soap) - wash the plate - rinse with clean water and dry the plate with a paper towel. This tends to solve 99% of bed adhesion issues. The sink in the room next to the 3D printer area has all you need to wash the plate.
Note: there are no manual adjustments on this printer (unlike older printers) so please dont try and tinker - contact the 3d printing team if you have issues.
