Kity Table Saw

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Kity Table Saw
Manufacturer Kity
Model Série 8 819
AKA {{{aka}}}
Location Dusty Area
Team Woodworking
Induction Required Yes (use request form)
Booking {{{booking}}}
Status Defunct
Tools:   all pageslistPower ToolsBroken tools     {{}}

The table saw is arguably the most dangerous power tool in the workshop.


The table Saw requires a practical induction with a member of the Woodworking team, equirte on the #Woodworking channel on the Nottingham hackspace Slack. Aquatint yourself with following videos thintz12 Kickback, table saw accident: Dan Gelbart, Building Prototypes part 2 of 18 Safety: Jimmy DiResta Table Saw Tips: Stumpy Nubs, causes kickback (good general introduction to table saw safty)

Other videos are available of course, but be aware some more popular youtube woodworkers don't follow best practice when it comes to safety The New Yankee Workshop Table Saw 101 is ideal but not freely available on YouTube NB: not all these tips are suitable for our tools - if in doubt, ask!


The Table Saw is NOT a general-purpose saw, some types of cut and timber are exceedingly dangerous to make on this type of saw. Before using it, think carefully about the cut you are about to make, understand the causes of kickback and trapping.
Is there better saw to make the cut? for a cross-cut use the Radial Arm Saw, for small pieces of timber a handsaw. We have a range of saws available, the table saw is the most complex in terms of managing the hazards and has the highest potential for causing serious injury

Hazards and control measures (draft Section)

What Can I Cut

Sheet material, seasoned commercial or processed timber. Timber with at least one straight machined edge and one completely flat surface, Reclaimed, green timber or anything with twisted or convex/concave surfaces should not be cut without pre processing, anything that is not flat with one square edge and fully seasoned, should be cut another way or planned up such that it is, Handsaws, bandsaws and Miter/chop saw's are all available in the workshop.

What Can I not Cut

The Table Saw is Not suitable for trimming down logs for lathe work (that is it's very dangerous for such cuts), anything that cannot be adequately guided through the blade supported flat and square against the sliding table guide or rip fence. Fresh cut, unseasoned (undried) timber with live edges, irregularly shaped green, or heavily sapped twisty grained timber for example. The hackspace table saw is NOT suitable for partial cuts such as dado or box jointing, as seen on many youtube videos, there are other safer ways to make such cuts and modification of saw to make these type of cuts is not permitted due to the removal of the guard.


  • Do not assume that the previous user has left the tablesaw in a safe and well-adjusted condition
  • Do not wear any loose attire, wear short-sleeved shirts, tie long hair back securely, check yourself and remove any neck tie, scarf, baggy garment or jewellery which has the potential to catch the blade and pull you on to it.
  • Use the dust extraction
  • Don't stand in the line of the blade when cutting, position yourself and others to avoid trouble
  • Check that the floor is free of loose sawdust and debris
  • Use eye and ear protection
  • Always use the push sticks provided (or make your own) to feed the work through and past the blade.
  • Learn how to make adjustments on this model before you start work
  • Understand the causes of binding and kickback
  • Never use the rip fence as a guide for cutting wood to length. The offcut piece is likely to become trapped between the fence and the saw blade and pose a serious kickback hazard.
  • Shut down the machine for all adjustments and cleaning
  • Especially avoid leaning or reaching over the moving blade
  • Shut down the machine before retrieving work and offcuts from the outfeed table or use a pushstick to move a piece into a safe position to reach
  • If in doubt, ask!

The Hackspace's Kity table saw has two mechanisms for guiding the work through the saw, a sliding table attachment, this can be used for cutting large sheet materials and cross-cutting, and a rib-fence for rip cutting, the two are mutually exclusive do not use both together.

Think about the journey of the work through the cutting process, where you will stand, where other people are working, where the cut and off-cut will end up, where to position out-feed rollers if needed.
Think about the position you hands will be in at the start and finish when you make the cut, make sure you have push sticks to keep away from the spinning blade.

If while cutting the work gets stuck in the cut, becomes difficult to manage or starts to smoke and char, stop the saw with the switch and allow the blade to stop spinning before clearing the work from the table.


Read the signage near the saw.

Fire and Trapping

If the wood becomes difficult to push and to cut requires force to move it through the blade. if you smell burning, STOP, switch off the saw allow the blade to spin down to a complete stop and remove the wood from the table. Work can trap if the rip fence is positioned incorrectly or not parallel to the blade if the timber is resinous or warps after it is cut due to the grain structure, this causes the work to heat up very quickly to the point that embers can form (see the sign on the wall).

If you are making fine cuts using the rip-fence take particular care if the work starts to trap, STOP work. thin slivers of charred timber can fall below the blade and with the draft from the exhaust raise a fire under the saw, immediately Inspect and clear the area below the blade.

Table saw base and blade chute needs clearing and vacuming

Inspection and cleaning

There is window on the side to inspect the base and blade chute for wood chips.
Unplug from the mains.
Release the sliding table ( lever on the front of the sliding section) and move it fully forward such that the area below the blade can be inspected from above, the blade shroud flips forward for a better view, The base can be accessed from the LHS, by four thumbscrews securing the panel, clear any debris with a vacuum cleaner. The clear Lexan panels can be removed for this.

Don’t remove the guard

  • if you think you need to remove the guard then you are probably using the wrong tool or using the tool wrong
  • find another way of doing it
  • consider using the router for blind (non-through) cut (avoiding riving knife/guard)
  • a temporary guard or jig can be constructed
  • consider using the deep bandsaw for tall cuts (max. 104mm) that would foul the guard body of fixings

Loose clothing

  • baggy sleeves, ties, long hair and any form of attire that comes in contact with the spinning blade has the potential to cause horrific injury.

Cross cutting

  • Consider using the chop saw (usually the right tool for the job)
  • Never use the long rip fence when crosscutting boards
  • For accurate lengths use a shorter secondary fence or a stop on the sliding carriage

Don’t be a douchebag/contemptible fellow

  • Think ahead: do you have time to tidy up? If not then don’t start the job
  • Immediately after use, sweep down the machine THEN sweep the floor (and put the dust in the bin!)
  • Don’t leave your offcuts or spare materials - take them away and put them in the right place (bin, small blocks area, materials area, home)

Adjustments and alignment

  • blade height wheel (and lock screw) - TODO document the badly worn spindle
  • blade angle wheel (and lock screw)
  • fence attachment flip - temporary, sacrificial fences
  • Sliding carriage lock
  • crosscut attachment fitting and removal
  • zero-clearance throat plates
  • blade replacement